Paint stripping hood underneath

[Lone Star]

Needing some help on what is the best way to strip the under side of hood.
I have not used any liquid paint stripper in a long time and not sure if there is any products that will strip as good or better than the old aircraft stripper of the old days. I do not want to even think about having it media blasted as hard as these old original hoods are to come by. So if you can help an old man out here with some best methods and practices of today I would appreciate it. I am going to pick up an OEM hood today from a seller that is suppose to be in excellent shape and if so I would like to get it in SPI Epoxy by sometime this weekend.
Also I am going to try the heat and razor blade method on the top surface along with 80 grit DA if there is better way let me know.

Old Man coming up on 70 year old this weekend.

Restoring 66 Nova all original

TIA Ron

 

[LITJOHN]

Anyone in your area have a dip tank?

Pic of the Nova please

John

 

[Dean Jenkins]

Not a pro, so take my thoughts in that context.
I think it depends on the condition and what paint is on the surface.

If it is OEM paint that is in pretty good shape and not rusted, not flaking, it may not need to be stripped. Just thorough 180 grit scuff and rigorous cleaning and then could shoot epoxy on it.

If it has been repainted with who knows what, or has surface rust, then stripping is called for.

Only be afraid of incorrect media blasting. Done correctly it is the best and easiest approach for that kind of area.
See if there is an outfit in your area that specializes in automotive restoration type work and can explain their process.

Or, get a simple spot blaster and a sack of Tractor Supply Store coal slag and do it yourself. Very safe and effective.

 

[Lone Star]

Anyone in your area have a dip tank?

Pic of the Nova please

John

No dip tanks around here...they were moving from one place to another 10+ years ago as the cities around here did not like the hazardous waste etc. I was wanting to go that route with the car but went with blasting instead. Here is a couple photos from a while back. The green primer is zinc chromate I had laying around I sprayed after media blasting.

 

[Lizer]

The only thing that's not cool about blasting undersides of a hood is the media is stuck inside it forever it seems, and every time you slam the hood a little more sand comes out, or when you're painting it, you might blow some sand out.

 

[Lone Star]

Not a pro, so take my thoughts in that context.
I think it depends on the condition and what paint is on the surface.

If it is OEM paint that is in pretty good shape and not rusted, not flaking, it may not need to be stripped. Just thorough 180 grit scuff and rigorous cleaning and then could shoot epoxy on it.

If it has been repainted with who knows what, or has surface rust, then stripping is called for.

Only be afraid of incorrect media blasting. Done correctly it is the best and easiest approach for that kind of area.
See if there is an outfit in your area that specializes in automotive restoration type work and can explain their process.

Or, get a simple spot blaster and a sack of Tractor Supply Store coal slag and do it yourself. Very safe and effective.

There are no media blasting companies around the D/FW area that can do a hood or deck lid and not damage it. I know this as a personal experience too. There are not that many left that do car bodies either. But I am open to other techniques that will work for me.
I guess you could spot blast the under side frame work but if you get on the areas that are open it causes the areas to shrink. I think I even saw an article or two on here from that it was not from heat but from shot peening effect etc. Anyways keep the ideas coming I appreciate it.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

How are you welding skills?

I took my hood apart in order to get all the rust out.

 

[Lone Star]

How are you welding skills?

I took my hood apart in order to get all the rust out.
View attachment 24608

I have not seen the hood I am going to get later this evening I am hoping it does not have rust and just needs paint stripped and some minor filler work and blocking afterwords. I remember seeing your repairs on this hood sometime ago. I have been watching and reading most of the regulars post on here for a long time now but just started posting some of my questions etc.

 

[LITJOHN]

Looks like you have a very good start on it. I guess we're lucky that they're are couple places still dipping around here. Hopefully the hood your getting is in good shape with no rust.

John

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

If you don't want to blast it, and you don't want or need to take it apart, then I would say use the cookie disc strippers that are out there on a drill or die grinder. They make quick work of stripping although it will take a while to do the whole underside. Combine them with the bigger 4 1/2" strip discs that fit on a grinder and you should be able to do the under hood in a few hours. Bonus thing is that they don't remove metal (or very very little). They will also remove rust.

These work well for tight areas. You mount them on a mandrel and can use them in a drill or die grinder. I like a die grinder. Price them around as ABTM is overpriced. They are also available locally at most Paint Jobbers that sell 3M products.

3M Scotch-Brite Clean & Strip Discs 4

Makes surface preparation fast and easy. Great for removal of undercoatings, stone guards, seam sealers and rust. Works well under hood webs, in truck beds, door jambs, under carriage and wheel wells. Mounts onto 3M Mandrel 4528 (3M 07491). Extra coarse discs Silicon...

www.autobodytoolmart.com

4 1/2 strip discs for large areas. These are a good brand.

4-1/2" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Disc

4-1/2" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Discs are the perfect product for quickly removing paint, scale or oxidation without harming the work beneath. Made of abrasive filled blue nylon webbing for extra strength and longevity these 4.5 Inch E-Z paint stripper discs easily attach to an angle grinder.

www.empireabrasives.com

Your other option would be using paint stripper, but since the EPA outlawed some of the ingredients in good paint stripper, I don't know what works anymore. Maybe one of the other fellas will know.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

I should add that if you use the strip discs, be sure to go over the metal with 80 grit by machine or hand before epoxying.

 

[Lone Star]

If you don't want to blast it, and you don't want or need to take it apart, then I would say use the cookie disc strippers that are out there on a drill or die grinder. They make quick work of stripping although it will take a while to do the whole underside. Combine them with the bigger 4 1/2" strip discs that fit on a grinder and you should be able to do the under hood in a few hours. Bonus thing is that they don't remove metal (or very very little). They will also remove rust.

These work well for tight areas. You mount them on a mandrel and can use them in a drill or die grinder. I like a die grinder. Price them around as ABTM is overpriced. They are also available locally at most Paint Jobbers that sell 3M products.

3M Scotch-Brite Clean & Strip Discs 4

Makes surface preparation fast and easy. Great for removal of undercoatings, stone guards, seam sealers and rust. Works well under hood webs, in truck beds, door jambs, under carriage and wheel wells. Mounts onto 3M Mandrel 4528 (3M 07491). Extra coarse discs Silicon...

www.autobodytoolmart.com

4 1/2 strip discs for large areas. These are a good brand.

4-1/2" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Disc

4-1/2" x 7/8" Easy Strip and Clean Discs are the perfect product for quickly removing paint, scale or oxidation without harming the work beneath. Made of abrasive filled blue nylon webbing for extra strength and longevity these 4.5 Inch E-Z paint stripper discs easily attach to an angle grinder.

www.empireabrasives.com

Your other option would be using paint stripper, but since the EPA outlawed some of the ingredients in good paint stripper, I don't know what works anymore. Maybe one of the other fellas will know.

I will check out those disks you mentioned Chris and see where I can get them so I can start on it maybe tomorrow. I have a couple of paint suppliers I use for wash thinner and some other items glaze/bondo but since I don't get a shop price deal some times I go to online. I remember seeing those but have never tried them. This will give me an option to try as you mentioned the chemical stripper is not what it use to be and that was also what I wanted to confirm before getting all that mess in the crooks and crannies.
Appreciate it Chris.
Trying to do the right thing here...66-67 Nova OEM hoods in good condition is real hard to find. And I am going back 100% original including nut and bolt here.

 

[MAKZ06]

Like Chris links above, The fiber clean and strip discs are what I have found works best for me on the body exterior and under the hood, etc. for the tighter spots I switch from the larger angle grinder discs to the small 2” quick-change ones that mount in a die grinder.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

I will check out those disks you mentioned Chris and see where I can get them so I can start on it maybe tomorrow. I have a couple of paint suppliers I use for wash thinner and some other items glaze/bondo but since I don't get a shop price deal some times I go to online. I remember seeing those but have never tried them. This will give me an option to try as you mentioned the chemical stripper is not what it use to be and that was also what I wanted to confirm before getting all that mess in the crooks and crannies.
Appreciate it Chris.
Trying to do the right thing here...66-67 Nova OEM hoods in good condition is real hard to find. And I am going back 100% original including nut and bolt here.

Most jobbers should have those discs. You want the ones that you can mount on a mandrel so that you can use the edge. The 3M ones seem to work the best of that type. They last pretty good as well. Using with a die grinder will help speed up the process versus using them with a drill.

 

[Lone Star]

Picked up the hood this evening and it appears to be in really good shape with no rust showing. My question what would be best option for setting hood upside down on something that will not cause stress on outer skin etc. Top side up is not a problem because its resting on inner structure. Here is photos on bumper build stand. I also tried laying on floor with blanket but it still was resting on the top center ridge.

 

[LITJOHN]

Nice find on the hood!! I use the cheap metal saw horses with 48" 2x4s screwed to the tops , Bevel the edges and throw a HF moving blanket over them or old tee shirts then a little tape to hold them in place. I've got about 6 made up, some are built to hold fenders. Just my .02 worth.

John

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Don't know if you have already but with those types of stands, position the hood so that the long way(front to back) is resting the long way of the stand s. Meaning the long way of the hood is parallel with the long way/side of the stands. Rotate the hood 90 degrees from how it is in the pics. That should work. Adding more padding will help too.

 

[theastronaut]

I usually hang hoods upside down, by making plates that bolt to the latch mount and hinge mount flats. I weld 1/2 nuts on the top of the plates and screw in eye bolts.

We have two 8' long 4x4's in the attic on top of the ceiling joists, one at each end of the stall, with eye bolts through them dropping down through the ceiling to hang parts from. Also used them to lift bare bodies off of frames before with four come alongs. Handy to have as lifting points, and keeps big panels from being damaged by laying them on stands. A big plus it that it'll let you do the bodywork on the inside of the hood without any distortion from a stand pushing the metal out of it's natural shape since it's hanging from the places it's meant to be supported by on the car. For spraying primer or paint I space the plate up a bit to get access under the plate.

 

[Big Dave]

Have you checked out North Texas Customs? They have a good reputation from what I’ve heard, but I haven’t personally used them.

 

[Lone Star]

Big Dave,
If you are talking about the one in Garland that is who I used a few years ago and ruined the hood and deck lid. I will leave it as a bad experience.
Like you say they come highly recommended. Anyways I was not going to bring this into the thread but maybe it will help others out.