Ospho treated metal

South Florida is a pretty humid place but I use glass bead and have left parts unpainted for months with no sign of rust. Used sand years ago and the parts rusted up the same day.
 
Hey Jim, How much is the newage for a 80lb bag? Looks like a good alternative for sheetmetal. I couldn't see replacing bb on a frame due to the quick nature,but I bet it is good on a body. I used bb on the entire body and fenders of an aluminum body car and never warped a panel including around the alum hood side louvers. Low pressure, practice, and patience. I wouldn't recommend a newbie blaster to try it though.
 
it comes in 50lb bags or a 3000lb sack. obviously by the sack its much cheaper per lb. i get it in the bags just because i have just a pot blaster and its easier to handle in bags. cost for the stuff depends on how much you buy. i believe my price on a 50lb bag is around $7. i buy usually 2 pallets at a time which is 2000lb ea. i have tried and tried to warp sheetmetal with the stuff just to see if i could and i havent been able to do it.
 
i know they ship pallets nationwide since they supply they navy ship yards and all the companies blasting and maintaining bridges. thats the majority of their business. the shipping just adds to the cost though. you can call them bob to atleast see what they can do pricewise. i know they will work with you a little on the pricing to help cover the shipping. pretty good people to deal with. the owner and guy you want to talk to there is steve. you'll want the medium size grit.
 
hey guys, today i backed the car out in hopes of neutralizing my ospho treated metal. first i sprayed the areas, let it soak for a couple min then i took a towel and started to wipe the areas until all the black areas were gone then i rinsed thoroughly with water and immediately dried with compressed air and drying towel. it all looked great until the bare metal started turning a rainbow color. is that normal?

here is a pic


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Looks like it started to dry before you wiped it, to me. I have not used Ospho, but for instance PPG's DX579 metal treatment will produce a more uniform appearance than that when wiped dry immediately. The rinse water must "sheet" and not bead up anywhere or you have not gotten the metal clean, then you must wipe the panel immediately with clean new prep wipes until dry. Then use SPI water base wax and grease remover.
 
it wasnt dry before i wiped it believe me when i say it was soaking wet with water. im thinking it is the water impurities cuz the water sheeted off in all areas. i also hit a small spot with 80g DA and the discoloration disappeared instantaneously
 
From your description, you are fine. The most important part is the thorough water rinse, there seems to be a real aversion to that on the part of many technicians. DA it and go!
 
did the ospho ever dry ? it has to be wet when rinsed . if it does dry just wipe it again with ospho then rinse.
the only problem with acid is acid left on it. looks like you are good to go. the metal does turn some funny colors and sometimes will flash rust a little. that means it's clean. you need 80 grit for an anchor pattern anyway. good luck.

just watch for white risidue . that is dried acid.
 
crashtech;10819 said:
The most important part is the thorough water rinse, there seems to be a real aversion to that on the part of many technicians.
Click to expand...

I think this is a normal reaction to putting water on bare metal. But the acid works so good, and sometimes a panel or section doesn't need to be replaced if all the rust can be taken out of the rust pits.I felt the same way about water and bare metal, until I mentioned it to the chemical stripper I use, and he bombarded me with chemical terms and how water can be made neutral, or something to that affect. Anyway, just the sound of all those fancy words convinced me that I should at least give it a try.

He said that tide detergent has the lowest ph level of any soap, and that I should get the panel really wet with the acid, and then just wash it good with a bucket of water and tide---with lots of suds. I use a wheel cleaning brush, and when you are done, pour the soapy water on the panel and then rinse good with water. When you dry it off there won't be any residue or flash rust.

Very simple, safe, and effective. It will be squeaky clean, ----and etched, if the acid contains Zink phosphate. (takes 15 minutes to etch)

I use a small SS wire brush and a curved pick to scrap and agitate the rust, while it is desolving
 
I have heard of using Tide for cleaning aluminum engine parts, but have not often heard of it recommended for exterior sheetmetal.

I personally would only recommend products specifically tailored to the auto refinish market for these purposes. For instance, PPG's DX520 is a mild phosphoric acid solution with surfactants (soap) specifically designed to be compatible with auto refinish products. It also contains the same corrosion inhibitor as SPI epoxy, zinc phosphate.
 
I called P&G and they said the only reason they wouldn't recommend it is because they have never tryed it, or considered it, so they really couldn't comment. They only recommend it for laundry.(I hope my hands are OK) So I called the stripper again, and they stand by their statement. They have been using it and recommending it for years. I would really like to know if there is a problem with this, what ingredients were you referring to Shine?
 
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