Chad.S
Oldtimer
I typically always activate the base coat, better adhesion and when it applies it seems to help with metallic control for some reason, it must hold the metallic better.So this implies that you need to activate the base correct
I typically always activate the base coat, better adhesion and when it applies it seems to help with metallic control for some reason, it must hold the metallic better.So this implies that you need to activate the base correct
what ratio are you mixing your epoxy. I tend to use a 1:1:1, and at that ratio it's thin and flashes fast, I then wait a half hour and apply a coat of base.. When adding this to my method above, the epoxy solvents will breath through the base coat over night which is a added bonus to doing the two phases, because it gets more time to flash off vs trapping it with clear. Less contraction this way.On the 63 Corvette I just did this is the process I used:
Reduced epoxy sealer then set overnight.
Denib/ sand sealer next morning then apply 3 coats base and let it set overnight.
Denib base next morning, blend in base over sanding marks, spray clear that afternoon.
This seemed to work well for me.
I have a cheap Astro sun gun and I use it as Chad said with the booth lights off. Nibs etc really jump out.
Don
Overall though, this is a very similar process. I asked about reducer ratio because this process would work well if you are reducing the sealer less than I do, I could see that being beneficial on some jobs as well.On the 63 Corvette I just did this is the process I used:
Reduced epoxy sealer then set overnight.
Denib/ sand sealer next morning then apply 3 coats base and let it set overnight.
Denib base next morning, blend in base over sanding marks, spray clear that afternoon.
This seemed to work well for me.
I have a cheap Astro sun gun and I use it as Chad said with the booth lights off. Nibs etc really jump out.
Don
I use a 25% reduction. So 1:1:0.5.what ratio are you mixing your epoxy. I tend to use a 1:1:1, and at that ratio it's thin and flashes fast, I then wait a half hour and apply a coat of base.. When adding this to my method above, the epoxy solvents will breath through the base coat over night which is a added bonus to doing the two phases, because it gets more time to flash off vs trapping it with clear. Less contraction this way.
I use a 25% reduction. So 1:1:0.5.
Don
How long between base and UC?1:1:1 sealer. Wait 2 hours. 3 coats of base 30 minutes between then UC. All in one day
Am I too worried about the wet edge? That's why I was chasing around the car.No both sides are painted with the car sitting normal on the rotisserie. Only the roof etc is painted with the car rotated 90 degrees. Hope that makes sense. The car is never inverted.
Don
How long between base and UC?
Don
Maybe. Never had a problem. Appropriate activator and reducers would likely play a role. I always go slower.Am I too worried about the wet edge? That's why I was chasing around the car.
As a wise man once said, Slower is better….On the Duster 30 minutes and that was a fail. On the Dart ~2 hours and that was just a fail in a couple small areas
25% sealer sands nice the next morning. I use 800-1000 sanding sponges.I think the process matches the ratio well and probably adds a few benefits as well.
I'm just going to be real here with my experience, with SPI I always try to chase the wet edge. There seems to be a very small window of opportunity for the clear to melt in say when you are getting repositioned from one side on a roof to the other. Seems like over a minute and boom there is gonna be a dry edge. On light metallics again I always chase the edge on top flat surfaces. Maybe its due to my environment of a garage and not a strong amount of airflow.. not sure really.Am I too worried about the wet edge? That's why I was chasing around the car.
im guessing it was in areas where there could have been a lot of build up? Honestly, after 2 hours you shouldn't have an issue clearing, but if you can wait overnight its going to do nothing but help avoid any problems.On the Duster 30 minutes and that was a fail. On the Dart ~2 hours and that was just a fail in a couple small areas
Do you have the brand of the sanding sponges you use? I want to try this method next time I spray. Thank you25% sealer sands nice the next morning. I use 800-1000 sanding sponges.
Don
Do you have the brand of the sanding sponges you use? I want to try this method next time I spray. Thank you
For the clueless among us, can you elaborate n how to use the sponges? Do you use them with some sort of interface (block/interface pad) or directly by hand? Does sanding direction matter, i.e. crosshatch or straight?I use these but I’m sure there are better ones. One box lasts a long time.
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Don