Oops polished through an edge on the door of my GTO. Advice would be appreciated

direction only means how fast it will burn it off. you heat the paint on that edge and it just melts off.
 
At some point you have to use discretion when doing any of this. Every aspect of this trade is just one small step redoing everything.

Final detail on a car that was set to leave in a day or so... Buffer grabbed the antenna that I just installed......Gotta love it..

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orangejuiced86 said:
At some point you have to use discretion when doing any of this. Every aspect of this trade is just one small step redoing everything.

Final detail on a car that was set to leave in a day or so... Buffer grabbed the antenna that I just installed......Gotta love it..

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Ouch !........I could hear you swearing from my house.
 
Is what it is man. I yelled for sure, but after awhile you just subconsciously start the process of fixing it before you even really dwell on it.
 
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Ya thats pretty painful right there. That would take me a few weeks to get over before I jumped right in on repairing it.

How is that coming along?
 
cleared the roof yesterday. will sand and reclear with a different gun.
 

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I remember when that happened to you Shine and it was hard for you to even talk about it. When you said delam, I didn't quite picture it that bad! Good to see you are still going strong. It's been awhile since we've crossed paths.
Your paint booth is very, very similar to mine. Works very well for me.
 
MJM said:
Now bare with me as I'm just speaking out loud here but, after re-reading all the replies on taping, not taping edges. I was thinking, if you're using tape, or not, we know to stay away from the edges when buffing with a wool pad. Couldn't one use a foam pad to blend in the edges vs a wool pad that's used for buffing the panel?

It seems to me the foam pad would be less aggressive and should have no problem getting out 1500 grit sanding marks on edges?
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I would say 100% yes...There are Guys out there that do not use any wool pads...For foam, 1500 scratches will be an issue..I would at least go to 2500 min, or what many folks on here do...3000, 8000..There are many, many types of pads..Go on "detailedimage" website and insert "pads" in search box
 
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orangejuiced86 said:
At some point you have to use discretion when doing any of this. Every aspect of this trade is just one small step redoing everything.

Final detail on a car that was set to leave in a day or so... Buffer grabbed the antenna that I just installed......Gotta love it..

View attachment 26379
Click to expand...
Man this sucks



Wait a minute, u mean you didn't use the all kandy "wet wet no buffing needed " clear??
 
MJM said:
Now bare with me as I'm just speaking out loud here but, after re-reading all the replies on taping, not taping edges. I was thinking, if you're using tape, or not, we know to stay away from the edges when buffing with a wool pad. Couldn't one use a foam pad to blend in the edges vs a wool pad that's used for buffing the panel?

It seems to me the foam pad would be less aggressive and should have no problem getting out 1500 grit sanding marks on edges?
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That’s what I do- I start with 1500 and finish with 2000. I run a foam pad at a slow speed and concentrate on not running it off the edge
 
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MJM said:
Now bare with me as I'm just speaking out loud here but, after re-reading all the replies on taping, not taping edges. I was thinking, if you're using tape, or not, we know to stay away from the edges when buffing with a wool pad. Couldn't one use a foam pad to blend in the edges vs a wool pad that's used for buffing the panel?

It seems to me the foam pad would be less aggressive and should have no problem getting out 1500 grit sanding marks on edges?
Click to expand...
I only use foam and it will not come close to removing 1500. If you’re buffing an edge you need to be buffing off the edge and your adjacent panel needs to be taped up.

I tape about an inch or so before the edge while sanding so there’s no sanding scratches there that need to be removed. I walk the tape back each successive grit so there can be overlap of sanding scratches to completely remove the previous grit. And sometimes I have used a little 3” foam pad on a drill to buff tricky edges.
 
shine said:
look closer. lot of texture in the center. my arm gave out half way thru. will buzz it down and hit it again with a hoser.
my falcon will get painted on the rotisserie.
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I wish you hadn't pointed that out to me. Now I'm disappointed :(
 
A bit off topic but thought I would ask?
I see DA and Random orbit along with rotary polishers. Also long and short throw DA's.
But Harbor Freight has one they label as "Forced Rotation"?
It's one of their more expensive buffers too.
Forced Rotation Polisher


Does that term mean something different? Just a marketing term maybe?
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I have developed my own process. I only color sand out to 1500 grit. Then I use a rotary polisher with a denim pad with Menzerna Heavy Cut 400. The denim pad helps remove a little bit of wave or peel that I may have missed. Then I switch to a wool bonnet on the rotary with the Menzerna 400 to eliminate any slight scratching that is left after the denim pad. Then I switch to a long throw orbital using a microfiber pad and Meguiar's 205 Ultra Finishing.
Here's a couple of photos of the deck lid and quarter panel I just completed:

kXyGB7C.jpg

nUaizAU.jpg

Hw8nnt3.jpg
 
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