nut serts

son pulled the mirrors off his doors a while ago. these are not the metal plate with nuts welded on, it was three individual nut serts. one on each side spun in the door skin. i was able to hold one with vise grips, the other was so corroded it just came out the hole in the door skin. it occurs to me, we cant sand under the remaining flanges. what is recommended here? remove them all? i really dont like this chincy method of mounting a mirror. any recommendations for a better way?
i believe i would just as soon have flange washer nuts, at least they could be easily removed later.
 
Sounds like a rivnut.
I use them but you have to get the right amount of material thickness to be confident of the grip.
Thin material would benefit from a washer type doubler.
I used countersink rivnuts when I worked in aircraft, but these had a key way. They never spun. They are not common in commercial applications , probably due to expense.
 
Sounds like a rivnut.
I use them but you have to get the right amount of material thickness to be confident of the grip.
Thin material would benefit from a washer type doubler.
I used countersink rivnuts when I worked in aircraft, but these had a key way. They never spun. They are not common in commercial applications , probably due to expense.
thats it, sorry for my poor terminology. im just not crazy about using these again. in the 70s dodge used a steel plate with welded nuts. they got cheaper as time went on i guess. i think we had better remove them all as its a place for rust and we wont get any paint under the flange with them in.
 
thats it, sorry for my poor terminology. im just not crazy about using these again. in the 70s dodge used a steel plate with welded nuts. they got cheaper as time went on i guess. i think we had better remove them all as its a place for rust and we wont get any paint under the flange with them in.

Good game plan, that's what I would.
 
I got curious…..the key type are somewhat obscure. I always thought they were great compared to a knurled type, but if you can’t find them it’s kinda frustrating.
I wet installed with epoxy primer so there no raw material contact.
I did find some 1/4-28 …although it was for 0.02 minimum thickness on grip range.
There maybe other, and better choices.
Just thought I’d pass this on
 
I got curious…..the key type are somewhat obscure. I always thought they were great compared to a knurled type, but if you can’t find them it’s kinda frustrating.
I wet installed with epoxy primer so there no raw material contact.
I did find some 1/4-28 …although it was for 0.02 minimum thickness on grip range.
There maybe other, and better choices.
Just thought I’d pass this on

You're a mind reader posting that link, thank you. I was going to ask what a Rivet Nut with "Anti-Rotation Key" was, now I know.
I was going to suggest use a dab of 2 part epoxy (not paint epoxy) when using an insert nut. That may or may not assist with holding power.
 
You're a mind reader posting that link, thank you. I was going to ask what a Rivet Nut with "Anti-Rotation Key" was, now I know.
I was going to suggest use a dab of 2 part epoxy (not paint epoxy) when using an insert nut. That may or may not assist with holding power.
When I install rivnuts the hole is usually just drilled, light deburr, but the metal is exposed…first place for corrosion to start, so the use of anything to coat that exposed material is better than nothing.
Two part epoxy might be a better choice
The intention with the wet install might be a little over the top?
How about this?
SPI has it covered, from your nose to your toes and even those slightly oversized holes.
 
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