Need a little clarification on my process.

I think I know what I will do. I obviously need to spray two coats of epoxy over at least all the body worked areas no matter what I do. So I'll do that and when the epoxy dries to that nice gloss, I should be able to get a better idea of how my body work is looking. If at that point it's not looking bad, I'll block and do more epoxy and call it a day. If it's looking not so good, I'll run up and grab some feather fill, spray it, block it, and epoxy over top of it.
 
The epoxy won't dry to a nice gloss over your filler areas-anywhere there is filler it will be dull because the filler soaks up some of the epoxy-this is normal. You can however look at the panel as you spray it and while still wet you should be able to gauge the straightness. I really think a couple coats of poly will save you a lot of time. Let the epoxy cure overnight at a minimum before you shoot any polyester.
 
Ok. It's only about $100 for a gallon of feather fill so it's not going to break the bank.

One last question for now, for my last round of epoxy before top coat, does it need to be a reduced coat? Or would non reduced epoxy that's blocked fine be ok? Also, I got some transtar medium reducer to clean my gun with. Can I use that to reduce the epoxy? Thank you!
 
Sounds like you have a couple good options. I'd spray a couple coats of epoxy wet and see what it looks like wet. If your happy with the results I'd put a 3rd coat of epoxy for a total of 3 good coats. I'd 120 or 180 block it and spray 2 more coats of epoxy, 400 sand, seal, and paint.

If your bodywork doesn't look as good as you want with 2 wet coats epoxy then I'd go the featherfill route. I have a feeling this might be your route after looking at the pictures. and if you don't use some sort of glaze over all of the body filler then it's what you should do because the epoxy doesn't usually fill pin holes very good.

Only time I ever reduce epoxy if for sealer. If the transtar is urethane reducer then you can use it.

Your progress looks good.
 
I've applied what I believe will be the last of the filler. Going to try like hell to get another round of epoxy on it tomorrow. It will be close. Then I will spray a round of feather fill and block that and see how I'm doing its looking. If all looks well after blocking the feather fill, I'll do a coat of sealer and be ready for paint and clear.
 
Ok so didn't get the re prime done. But I got everything up to that point done so I can do it tomorrow after work.

Here's some current pics.





 
Just curious, are you not worried about the back of the cab? I normally pull the bed and spray the back of the cab and front of the bed first and then reassemble.
 
Nah. This truck is going to get driven many many miles on gravel roads, in the snow, in the mud, and everywhere else. I can't wash the area back there anyway. I masked it such that there will be a soft cut off line around 4" in.
 
Ok second round of epoxy is in the bag! Pretty much a repeat of last time. Mostly awesome with a couple runs. No big. Everything that's not perfect now will be perfected with the feather fill and glazing putty. Body work seems to look pretty good which is nice. The filler really seems to soak up the primer!



















 
For polyester primer, i use evercoat finish sand. It mixes 4 to 1 and sprays good with a 1.8, part number is 100738.
 
Looked into the finish sand. It doesn't list epoxy as a suitable substrate like the slick sand and feather fill do. My local place has feather fill G2 for $100 a gallon so i think i'll just go with that. The G2 also lists the recommended yip size as "1.7-2.2" which will be fine with my 1.8 tip.
 
Ok so I sprayed the epoxy yesterday. Can I spray feather fill tomorrow? Would be approximately 48 hours. And do I need to scuff the epoxy? Or is it fine since it's in the 7 day window?
 
Ok so I sprayed the epoxy yesterday. Can I spray feather fill tomorrow? Would be approximately 48 hours. And do I need to sand the epoxy? Or is it ok since it's in the 7 day window?
 
No need to scuff the epoxy, shoot it! Make sure the shop temp is at least 65* and that temp should be maintained as a minimum for all products, warmer is better.
 
There's areas where you don't need the buildup of that polyester primer, mask them off. Like the tailamp pockets, hood vent, fuel door pocket, etc...
 
10-4.

Wjat grit should I be final sanding the feather fill to before I do my sealer coat of epoxy?

I'm assuming my steps should go like 150, 220, 300, 400 and then sealer over that?
 
Finish putty really helps with the epoxy soak into the filler.

How are the residual fumes in the house? At night you guys must be walking around stoned. :)
 
I sealed off the door to the house and have a "booth" of sorts made out of the garage when I do the actual spraying where I open the garage door a couple feet and put furnace filters in the gap and then I have a fan in the window and in the back door to draw air through. So it's really not bad. You can catch a wif for sure, but it's just enough really to notice.
 
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