I'm really confused. I sanded my car to bare metal, applied "Picklex 20" which is a rust blocker/converter (before I learned of SPI) then sprayed the car with a good epoxy primer. Got a LOT of opinions on using that product and probable future de-lamination issues. So I talked with Barry who advised to once again strip the car to bare metal, apply OSPHO and start over. I did. So after a couple of weeks with the re-spray of epoxy, I got SPI's Turbo 2K primer. I sprayed the doors, boot lid and bonnet and the 2K primer is really nice. However, in block sanding, I did see a few very minor low spots that I want to use Upol glaze putty on. I also sand through to bare metal on a couple of small spots.
I'm confused as to whether I have to use EPOXY primer again on the bare spots and do I have to sand off the 2K primer in order to use the glaze putty on the low spots? I've read that the putty won't stick over 2K primer? I know this is elementary to you guys that do this a lot, but this is my first paint job on a car (I have a professional painter who will shoot the BC/CC for me) so your advice is really needed and much appreciated. The car has NO straight panels, meaning it is all curves. It's a 1951 Jaguar XK 120 OTS. A real bag of fun to sand.
I'm confused as to whether I have to use EPOXY primer again on the bare spots and do I have to sand off the 2K primer in order to use the glaze putty on the low spots? I've read that the putty won't stick over 2K primer? I know this is elementary to you guys that do this a lot, but this is my first paint job on a car (I have a professional painter who will shoot the BC/CC for me) so your advice is really needed and much appreciated. The car has NO straight panels, meaning it is all curves. It's a 1951 Jaguar XK 120 OTS. A real bag of fun to sand.