long board grit??

B

bomccorkle

I have stripped the car to bare metal and laid epoxy primer down(1st time it was excellent) I have laid down filler and cheese grated and I am using 80 grit on my long board currently but was wondering about stepping down to 60 or even 36?? My plan after getting my rough blocking done is to spray 2k then finish block then seal with epoxy. Just don't want to get too rough with the scratches although I do plan on a little glaze work to finish leveling if need be. I am using rage gold if it makes any difference.

Thanks guys

Bo
 
Lots a different ways to do things, but our rule around here is no blocking primer goes over anything more than 100 grit...the chance for bridging and sink is too great with 36 or 60 and I think 80 is marginal although it is done all the time...Dave
 
Rarely do we use a cheesegrater these days, but typically cheesegrater marks are removed by 40 and 80 before a second, thinner coat of filler which gets 80 and 150. This is followed by the skim or pinhole coat which is sanded with 150 and/or 220. Rules are made to be bent, but that is standard procedure here. Most of the time our starting grit is 80 (no cheesegrater). I have a box of 40 that will last about 5 years. Modern fillers sand better than the old school stuff, if you are using good filler and not globbing it on, cheesegraters are about obsolete...
 
Yes I got the rage gold and yes the grater is pretty much useless. I'm not the smoothest laying filler down so I've been roughing to shape with 36 then making my final shape with 80 on the air board a touch proud then hand blocking at 150. No pinholes as of yet with this filler but I do have a couple of spots that are just a touch low and am wondering if a glazing putty when 2k'ing would be the way to go as hopefully it'll all be easier to see then?? If so a recommendation? And if I'm reading correctly (please correct me if I'm wrong) but my finish blocking should all be in 220?? Also I have been using the dura-block kit and my longest is a 17" , is there a need to get a longer block(hood maybe)?
 
Glazing putty after epoxy primer is no problem, but I don't recommend it over 2K urethane unless it is very well cured. This is usually not done on purpose, but rather if a mistake has been made. If 2K urethane primer is to be used, it should be after ALL filler work is complete. This is accomplished in our shop by using epoxy only until the vehicle is straight enough for that last primer, which can be 2K urethane, or even just more epoxy on certain things.
 
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