Iwata LPH 400 setup advice ?

A

adrynalinjunkie

I have the 1.3mm tip since I am a novice and spray slow. I am going to shoot a coat of spi white epoxy tonight reduced 1:1:1 on some junk 1/4 panel pieces.

Then tomorrow I will base and clear them tommorrow

I usually just set the inlet psi at the gun at the max which is 29 psi I believe then open the fan as wide as I can without getting light in the middle (usually about 90% open on the fan)

I start with the needle 3 to 3.5 turns out and then adjust the needle to my speed.

Should I try any different psi settings on the HOK PBC32 tangelo base?

What about the HOK UC 35 clear?

Thanks in advance guys I really appreciate it.
 
I shoot with less air pressure usually 20-25 depending on what's in the gun. 2 1/2-3 turns out on the fluid usually. I haven't sprayed with the orange cap-maybe someone who has will chime in. Do the test panels so you can get the sealer to go on thin and smooth otherwise there will be texture and runs. The epoxy is thin at 1:1:1 so dial in the fluid adjustment.
 
With the epoxy and base coats, you might start with fluid adjustment around 1 1/2 turns out, I agree with Bob on the pressure.
 
Since you are just practicing on a couple junk parts, try different air pressure, lower is better in my book. Start hi or start low, then make changes a couple psi at a time till you sfind the sweet spot. At least that is how I do it.
You will get less overspray.
The trick is to find the pressure that makes the paint go on like you want. any more pressure is a wasted cloud.
 
Senile, I will be up there racing this Chevelle at Airway heights on Friday nights once it is painted. You should come out and see it.

HOW do I tell if the pressure is too low? orange peel? it won't lay down smooth? What?

How do I tell if the air pressure is to high? Besides the increased overspray in the air? What will it look like?
 
adrynalinjunkie;18738 said:
Senile, I will be up there racing this Chevelle at Airway heights on Friday nights once it is painted. You should come out and see it.

HOW do I tell if the pressure is too low? orange peel? it won't lay down smooth? What?

How do I tell if the air pressure is to high? Besides the increased overspray in the air? What will it look like?
Click to expand...

Have you read this page ? It has great info that should help you figure it out.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/adjusting%20your%20gun.htm
 
Calls for 16 but yes a lot of people spray at 18-25.... If you're after an oem texture turn the pressure down to 14-16.
I've sprayed with it at 10psi for small parts with good results but everything else needs to be dialed down as well, fluid, distance... Play with it and know what it needs is the only way to find out, it's all about the ratio, distance, and speed.
 
Need to remember air pressure at the cap is not air pressure at the gun's air inlet.
 
Great info guys thanks a million.

When they put 16 psi on the cap they MUST be talking inlet pressure, RIGHT?
 
adrynalinjunkie;18778 said:
Great info guys thanks a million.

When they put 16 psi on the cap they MUST be talking inlet pressure, RIGHT?
Click to expand...

No, they are talking pressure measured at the cap with an expensive gauge.
 
SOF, I think he means its engraved on the cap....
Inlet pressure of 16lbs, gives you 10lbs AT the cap.
 
SOF,
You are incorrect. I have the manual for my LPH400 and it states the 16 psi is the atomizing pressure and then explains that to be the pressure at the gun inlet (with trigger full open) necessary to achieve 10 psi at the cap.
 
Senile Old Fart;18770 said:
Need to remember air pressure at the cap is not air pressure at the gun's air inlet.
Click to expand...

For the Iwata, the pressure listed on the cap is indeed the inlet pressure
to obtain 10 psi at the nozzle to be compliant.
16 PSI measured at the inlet with the trigger pulled.
 
Inlet pressure of no more than 16 psi is required for legal HVLP operation with the LPH400. The best looking finishes will be obtained at pressures above the legal limit.

Many gauges are terribly inaccurate at low pressures, Iwata sells a gauge that maxes out at 60 psi and is pretty accurate.

I've settled on 20 psi for my LPH400 1.4 for clear, that is with a full trigger pull and fluid flowing. My other settings would not be valid for a 1.3 gun.
 
Crash,
When you say "legal HVLP operation" what are you referring to some OSHA standards?
I agree the best finishes I get with my LPH400 1.4 are in the 20-22 psi range but was curious about the legality thing.
 
Most all HVLP guns spray better with higher than recommended pressure.
To get the government standard of 10 PSI at the tip which produces the
least overspray and product waste you have to use the pressure recommended.
That is not the best spraying pressure.
There are gov't agencies that enforce local rules for body shops to only
use HVLP's for environmetal reasons.
But at higher pressures, the HVLP starts loosing it's advantage over
conventional guns and soon starts wasting as much paint and putting just as
much in the air.
It's ironic isn't it, the main reason for going to HVLP (efficiency) doesn't exist for
most because we use higher pressures.
(I'm sure the gun mfg's don't mind at all)
It's just another push by the government that just doesn't work.
 
Well guys I just used 22 psi and jammed the doors.

I pulled them out in the sun and was looking at it. This clear is so flat I'm not gonna buff it.

This is with a 1.3 tip. To say the least I am damn impressed with this gun for clear coat though.
 
adrynalinjunkie;19595 said:
Well guys I just used 22 psi and jammed the doors.

I pulled them out in the sun and was looking at it. This clear is so flat I'm not gonna buff it.

This is with a 1.3 tip. To say the least I am damn impressed with this gun for clear coat though.
Click to expand...

Let me know when you are going to race at SCR, I'll come out and say howdy.
 
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