It Followed Me Home...Can I Keep It?

cmfisher4

Promoted Users
Time for another project. Going to slow roll this one based on it being the "next level", but here we go again!

1964 Triumph TR4. Just over 19000 miles on the odometer. No clue if that's accurate, but she's pretty solid. well, except for the floor and sills.

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cmfisher4

Promoted Users
It's a disease. There is no cure, and the only treatment is more of the same, otherwise it's terminal.

Have to convince my wife of that!
 

cmfisher4

Promoted Users
I've been lurking and keeping up with your threads, Jim. Like I said before, you're an inspiration and your photos and attention to detail are right where I want to be, so a great resource for me.
 

cmfisher4

Promoted Users
Pulled the wing off the driver's side (only). Pretty happy with what I found under the fender of a 56+ year old British car. Looks like it's going to be less work than my Spitfire, that's for sure. I have new sills (rocker) already, so hopefully it'll just be the floors and then several patch pieces.

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Bottom of the A post. The sill is the thing with all the holes in it, but that piece right above it is normally gone on these cars.

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Another shot more into the wheel arch. That metal baffle is also usually rotted away (you can see the hose behind it that discharged rain water run off into the inside of the wing...great design :rolleyes:

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Behind the front tire. There are holes in the bottom of the vertical panel, near the seam, but the front of the rocker cap is also an area that is normally obliterated. I can fix that stuff!

Cheers,
Chris
 

cmfisher4

Promoted Users
What's your threshold of pain on pitting? I assume there's some point where the pits are too deep and the metal needs to be replaced. Do you poke at it and, if the screwdriver doesn't go through it's ok? I've got some good pitting on the bottom of my fenders and in the wheel arches. I'd rather not cut and replace if I can help it for the areas that shouldn't be scarified. Ospho?

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Obviously some spots that require repair here (some?!), but the wheel arch isn't totally gone a few inches up.
 

cmfisher4

Promoted Users
Thanks, Jim. If the pitting is pretty good, but not through, do you just treat it (Ospho, paint, etc.) and move on?
 

JimKueneman

Mopar Nut
Thanks, Jim. If the pitting is pretty good, but not through, do you just treat it (Ospho, paint, etc.) and move on?

I blast it until there is nothing but dull grey metal. All the black rust is out of the pits then I epoxy coat it. Painful but the the only way to truly stop the rust forever, not a big deal on a SW car but after getting the parts from Michigan I forgot how in the north most of the metal is in that condition :)
 

Sellersrodshop

Promoted Users
That would have bumped up the performance a bit...:D
Believe it or not, but a 5.0 with aluminum heads is only about 60 lbs heavier than the original 4 banger so weight ratios aren’t off. Have a buddy in Canada with a 6.0 LS/6speed in a TR-6. It’s a beast! Hated selling mine off, but didn’t want it to ruin sitting outside until I got around to it. Have a close friend with a 65 he bought from the original owner in 66, so might have a shot at it someday.
 

cmfisher4

Promoted Users
I just pulled the motor this past weekend, so it doesn't surprise me that a modern aluminum motor is not much heavier than the cast iron block and head of the TR4 motor. There's a guy on YouTube putting a LS-something (4?) in a GT6. They are totally redoing the car. That'll be peppy, too.
 
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