Interesting video for Iwata guys

Interesting on the LPH-400 they are recommending 16psi trigger fully pulled with 2 to 2-1/2 turns in for fan pattern.

They didn't say if that was for base or clear coat?
 
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Interesting on the LPH-400 they are recommending 16psi trigger fully pulled with 2 to 2-1/2 turns in for fan pattern.

They didn't say if that was for base or clear coat?
You're right. I'm guessing both. I can call tomorrow and verify.
 
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I’ve always found I could spray base 2-4 psi lower than clear. I’m usually 16-18 for base and 20-22 for clear. Trigger pulled.
 
Interesting on the LPH-400 they are recommending 16psi trigger fully pulled with 2 to 2-1/2 turns in for fan pattern.

They didn't say if that was for base or clear coat?
the iwata air cap says 16 psi on it. thats what i spray it at for basecoat. and i up it to 30-35 for clear
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that pressure "at the cap" is not the same thing as pressure "at the gun" with the trigger pulled.

I will double check my settings for spraying epoxy, base and clear with my LPH 400 1.4 Silver Cap.

Another thing to note is that the settings that work for one person, may not work for another. Spraying speed, distance from panel and overlap all come into play.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that pressure "at the cap" is not the same thing as pressure "at the gun" with the trigger pulled.
You are correct. You need a special tool to be able to measure pressure at the cap. At least with SATA's you do. I've never done it nor worried about it. Remember all these guidelines gun manufacturers give are to ensure the gun stays EPA compliant, not to ensure it sprays as good as it can.
 
i just saw an iwata "air gunsa" for 140 bucks. how can an iwata be that inexpensive? or do they make cheaper guns?
They are "El Cheapo's", not manufactured to the same standard as regular Iwatas like the LPH series. I bought two of them for primer for$100 apiece back in 2016 and both started having issues after a few uses. I don't use either anymore and wouldn't recommend them to anyone.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is that pressure "at the cap" is not the same thing as pressure "at the gun" with the trigger pulled.

I will double check my settings for spraying epoxy, base and clear with my LPH 400 1.4 Silver Cap.

Another thing to note is that the settings that work for one person, may not work for another. Spraying speed, distance from panel and overlap all come into play.
That’s correct. The pressure entering the gun is different than at the cap. Cap pressure is lower than what’s entering the gun. You are also correct about settings. You can achieve a nice finish many different ways. A lot of people spray differently. Plus you have spraying environment differences, temps/humidity, air supply, etc. It’s hard to just give someone on the other side of the country the settings you spray with and have it work exactly the same for them. There a lot of other variables that come into play. It can be a good starting point though.
 
They are "El Cheapo's", not manufactured to the same standard as regular Iwatas like the LPH series. I bought two of them for primer for$100 apiece back in 2016 and both started having issues after a few uses. I don't use either anymore and wouldn't recommend them to anyone.
Yeah they’re no good. I love my iwatas but they shouldn’t even associate themselves with that gun. Kinda like the “starting line” of devilbiss.
 
i just saw an iwata "air gunsa" for 140 bucks. how can an iwata be that inexpensive? or do they make cheaper guns?

If this Air Gunsa you're looking at is a newer model (within the last three years), it's a good gun. Iwata made changes to the Air Gunsa series. Going from memory, Iwata is the one producing the Air Gunza series now, the older models where produced by an outside vendor.

I have two Air Gunza models. 1st is a primer gun........model AZ3HTE2. I have a 1.8 and 2.0 needle for it. The nozzle is machined so there is no seal needed.

2nd Air Gunza is a AZ4 HTE-S Impact Junior. It has two different Air Caps with 1.0, 1.2.1.3 and 1.8 nozzle / needles. This model also has machined nozzles so no seal needed.

Both of these lower priced Iwatas have sprayed good for me.

As Chris stated, older Air Gunzas (pre 2020) had issues due to build quality.
Current Air Gunza are a quality built spray gun.

Last but least, Air Gunza is no Iwata LPH 400 spray gun, however......it is a decent spraygun when used in the proper application.
 
hmm...........i think id like to replace the starting line, but maybe the gunsa is not much of a step up. still, i dont do a lot of painting.
 
I have the lph400. The 16 psi is max inlet to stay compliant in the places that mandate minimum transfer efficiency. 10 psi at the cap is generally max. Satas have max psi on the gun body, usually 29 psi.

What I was using for primer was the old w400 that they sell in Japan on ebay. They last forever.
 
I have the lph400. The 16 psi is max inlet to stay compliant in the places that mandate minimum transfer efficiency. 10 psi at the cap is generally max. Satas have max psi on the gun body, usually 29 psi.

What I was using for primer was the old w400 that they sell in Japan on ebay. They last forever.
Yes they’re great guns. W400 is the same body as LPH. You can convert back and forth with nozzle and air cap.
 
I talked to Iwata today and they said to use 18-20psi for base and clear with the fan in 2 turns. I did that on a couple small jobs and it worked well with the Speed clear.
 
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I talked to Iwata today and they said to use 18-20psi for base and clear with the fan in 2 turns. I did that on a couple small jobs and it worked well with the Speed clear.

Thanks for calling. That was nice of you.

I like the different gun settings for the LPH 400 in this thread. It gives those of us options to try to help dial in gun settings with technic's As 68Coronet alluded to already, distance from panel, speed and overlap also play a large roll in laying down paint well.
 
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