Inner nose structure repair for 1977 firebird

Well I emailed both Polyvance and 3m to see what they had to say.

Polyvance:

Eric,

You will not be able to use either filler to create the tabs or fill voids, even with glass cloth added. They cure too quickly and they also don't bond well enough to provide the structural integrity that you need for tabs and such. Watch this video on tab repair. If your tab is more of a post, you can build it up with the welder , then sculpt it to shape. You could also use the wire mesh as a framework for getting the basic shape.
https://www.polyvance.com/video/fiberflex-repair (this uses FiberFlex and will work well for your repair.

3m was less than helpful:

Dear Eric,

Thank you for contacting 3M, where we apply science to life.

In evaluating your specific application, we currently do not manufacture/market a product, which would meet your needs. We would recommend following OEM repair guidelines.


Both the 3m and Polyvance products TDS state they work with polypropylene I would give a shot.
 
I do have Polyvances airless welder, I bought it to repair the urethane bumper, didn’t even think of it for this. I tried it like they recommended. The part is indeed PP and when it melts I can swirl all the fiberglass around. I actually did a real quick repair on one of mine that was cracked with Polypropylene filler rod and the welder. Again, real quick as in clean, scuff and weld it up. Took all of about 20 mins. Dressed with 80g when done just on the top.
 

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EricB said:
I think you should be good to go. When you look on their website, the 1060FP is specifically called out to use when intending to repair Polypropylene parts. So use that and the filler. Don’t just glob it on, use a backer, foil or something similar and reconstruct the tab in layers. You can treat it like a fiberglass repair, using fiberglass cloth. You just use the epoxy filler instead of resin.
Click to expand...

I'm really doubting this who repair plan. I have a lot of different polyvance products here, and I'm thankful for the recommendation. I think I just need to lay this out and get the right resin though. Is there no SMC resin aside from evercoat? This product is RIDICULOUSLY expensive, and I need a thimble full of it. I really don't wanna have to buy even a quart when I'll never use it again and only have to buy a tiny tab now. I have this polyester resin for regular fiberglass. From what I read it won't work. I need an epoxy-based resin or the evercoat and resin. No one ever links to or explicitly names the epoxy resin they're using for SMC in the forum topics I found. Can anyone name an alternative to the evercoat SMC resin or can you link me to somewhere where it isn't so expensive? I am stopped at my local body supply store. They're not experienced in fiberglass period much less SMC they said. They didn't even know where to send me locally.

EDIT: I just saw your newest reply about the plastic welder. Isn't it just a soldering iron? Can I just use my soldering iron and melt this rod ( Polypropylene Rod, 1/8" Diameter, 30 Ft, Black https://a.co/d/gJYQJTf ) on to the SMC headlight panel and rebuild the tab as well as repair the cracks as you've shown?
 
West System epoxy and mat but I’m not sure it will be any less money. You have to use mat for epoxy resin not fiberglass mat.

Don
 
That polypropylene rod is what I used. I can't say a standard soldering iron would work.
West Systems is well known in the Marine world, your local marina most likely has it on the shelf.

Check out this thread:

West system epoxy resin

I have some fiberglass work coming up here soon and I wanna try the West system Epoxy resin. These are just normal Fiberglass race car parts from VFN. I've used the bondo brand resin and even with feathering out holes and such the correct way, they always seem to shrink in. I just want to...
www.spiuserforum.com
 
dhutton01 said:
You can restore it with epoxy primer. Just scuff it and shoot. No need for gel coat.
Click to expand...
Do I need to wipe it with waterborne wax and grease remover after scuffing? You didn't specify to do that, and I don't think I should because the material seems very porous like it will absorb the waterborne wax and grease remover, but I thought I'd ask since using it is typically called for.
 
Schroeder said:
Do I need to wipe it with waterborne wax and grease remover after scuffing? You didn't specify to do that, and I don't think I should because the material seems very porous like it will absorb the waterborne wax and grease remover, but I thought I'd ask since using it is typically called for.
Click to expand...
Just blow it off real well.
 
Anyone know where I can get these black rubber plugs for the headlight buckets? Screws sit in themn and hold the large bezels in. I've also pictured head light adjustment screws here. I'm thinking I'll still need them even though I'm planning on using halo or LED headlights of some sort.

PXL_20230608_003351305.jpgPXL_20230608_003354611.jpgPXL_20230608_003329856.jpgPXL_20230608_003333491.jpg
 
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