Im a beginner, how would you fix this?

J

jerrynova

I had alittle trouble getting the car off my trailer an the fender kind of got pushed in.Long story but I'm really feeling bad about this.This is the first car I've ever painted and with the help of this fourm I was very happy with how it turned out.

Here is the start of my questions.Should I paint the whole fender? I still have paint leftover and I never blended before. What needs to be done before primer?Should I worry about to many layers of paint buildup? Does the bare metak spot need to epoxy primed.It is not a high spot I used a razor blade to scrap it down to the bare metal because were the fender creased the paint cracked all the way to the metal. Basicly what would you guys do to fix this?

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First off, stop putting coarse grit scratches way back from your repair towards the door. If you keep that up you will end up blending the door as well! What grit are you using there?

Nice nova, btw.
 
Its 180 grit.My original plan was iron out the dent as best as I could while the fender is still on the car because it easyer to hold,then remove fender and repaint the whole thing.The undamaged part of the fender needs to be block sanded with what grit? or justed scuffed with what? Then do I 2k prime the whole thing brfore paint or just the repair?
 
OK, I need to get some coffee in me this morning before I will make any sense. It might be considered unusual to remove the fender for a relatively minor repair like that. I think we would possibly remove the hood & hinge to do the engine bay jamb with the fender, because that is just a few bolts and carries a low risk of damage.

So does the damage include the body line? Maybe this dent is bigger than it looks in the picture. How far away from the edge of the door do you think your primer will be?
 
I assume you used a sanding block and if so those low spots along the body line indicate damage there like Crashtech suggested. Try wiping the area with Wax and Grease remover and before it flashes off take a good look along the fender with decent lighting. This will help you see any waviness or other damage not readily visible in the photo.
 
If you want to do only the fender, the repaired and primered area should end no less than a foot from the next panel to leave room for the metallic blend.
 
Yes the body line is damaged.I will need to hammer that out better before I use any filler.Is the reason for a blend because its easier than removing the fender? or because the color match will be better?
 
Imho easier to fix and for me, easier to get a color match.
 
Well, the main reason to remove a fender for damage of that nature would be to avoid the use of body filler. If that is your goal, you may be able to achieve the same result by removing the inner fender instead, though I am not certain that can be accomplished on that model without removing or at least unbolting the bottom of the fender.

But if you were planning on using some poly putty to smooth out the damage, removing the fender seems to me a lot of extra work for not much gain. It's much easier to bag the vehicle and spray the fender on the car.

Like I said earlier, if anything remove the hood and shoot the jamb at the same time, and your repair will have no masking lines.
 
What kind of prep work for the repaint? Epoxy prime the bare spot,Lightly sand the rest of the fender 2k prime,base, clear? The only time I've ever painted anything (this car) I started with bare metal.
 
Epoxy prime just the bare spot, spot prime with 2K only where needed(the damage area only). Blocksand the 2K with 320 dry or 400 wet and reprime and block again if needed or finish it off with 600. I wouldn't remove the fender, just remove the front bumper, and fender trim and you should easy be able to backmask off the edges of the panel and bag the car for a quality repair refinish of that fender without any overspray on the rest of the car. Hope those 180 grit scratches didn't go any closer to the door than what shows in the photo and your primer area is the same size-this will leave you plenty of room to blend the color towards the door then clear the complete panel. Scuff the complete fender with a grey scotchbrite or 800 grit to prep it for the color blend. You could color the complete fender but the odds of shooting that light blue metalic exactly the same way as when you shot the car originally with the same temperatures, flash times, gun technique, substrate, etc... bottom line is there's a great chance that there will be a slight difference of lightness/darkness/metallic orientation unless it's applied exactly the same. When the repair area is ready for paint we can then walk you through blending the color.
 
UPDATE...I took the fender off fixed the dent basecoated the whole thing and cleared it.It looked great i wasn't sure of the color match but I was going to but it on and see how it looked.I was reading how setting it in the sun would help to cure the clear so aftre sitting for 5 days I set it in the sun.When I came back out side the wind blew over the stand it hit the ground and the stand dented the fender from the inside.At this point I was out of the original paint that I painted the car with so I bought more.(chromabase $125 for a sprayable quart unreal )so thinking that paint would not match I fixed the new dentand tryed to blend the basecoat.This is what I ended up with.Not happy.

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Bob Hollinshead;13253 said:
Epoxy prime just the bare spot, spot prime with 2K only where needed(the damage area only). Blocksand the 2K with 320 dry or 400 wet and reprime and block again if needed or finish it off with 600. I wouldn't remove the fender, just remove the front bumper, and fender trim and you should easy be able to backmask off the edges of the panel and bag the car for a quality repair refinish of that fender without any overspray on the rest of the car. Hope those 180 grit scratches didn't go any closer to the door than what shows in the photo and your primer area is the same size-this will leave you plenty of room to blend the color towards the door then clear the complete panel. Scuff the complete fender with a grey scotchbrite or 800 grit to prep it for the color blend. You could color the complete fender but the odds of shooting that light blue metalic exactly the same way as when you shot the car originally with the same temperatures, flash times, gun technique, substrate, etc... bottom line is there's a great chance that there will be a slight difference of lightness/darkness/metallic orientation unless it's applied exactly the same. When the repair area is ready for paint we can then walk you through blending the color.
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Let me give you some great advice since you are new and new to this forum.. When this guy gives out advice, take it!!!!

Your mishap is nothing that cant be fixed.. However, had you listened to Bob, you would not be in the shape you are in now.. Relax, you can fix this and still have an outstanding finish.. There isnt a mistake you will make, that someone on here hasnt made before!!! Or like myself.. Made same mistake several times :p
 
I'm sorry we were not able to convince you to do things a different way. I'm afraid that you have a fender that has a bad blend and may need to be stripped because of excessive film build. Excess build along the edges will also make the panel much easier to chip upon installation.
 
The color looks off and the blend wasn't successful. Always shoot a test panel to check the color match before shooting the part, in this case I think the store would have been mixing another batch. With Chromabase metalics it's usually required to shoot a coat of intercoat clear over the panel before doing the color blend, or Dupont 222S. It appears that the color was not blended gradual enough and with the mismatch it's a no win anyway. Now it looks like you're going to have to take the paint work into the door but first get a color that's closer. Some paint stores can't consistently mix the same formula, a drop or two of extra tint is sometimes all it takes to mess up a pint of color and there's a lot of other things that factor in, did the tints get stirred long enough every day? are some of the tints old and losing solvent?
 
I'd take that picture to the paint store so they can see the differences you're dealing with because of their mismatched batch, bring them the fuel cap off anything small they can match the color to. Have them mix up their best attempt at a color match, take it home and do a test spray with clear to see how close the match is. If it's close you can get away with repainting the fender and blending into the door and may not have to blend into the hood and cowl. Verifying your color match is the first step.
 
I'm back. After totaly messing up my car with my bad paint repair and bad decisioning makeing I just put the cover on it and it sat for 9 months. I wanted to fix it but knew that just painting the fender the color wouldn't match and not ever blending before I would mess it up worse. Well, is the middle on summer and I can't stand it any longer. I want to drive it! I've got a quart of color the seems to match fairly well and I'd like to give the blending a shot. I have many questions but lets start with what meterials I need to do this. I'm useing chromobase so what do I use to reduce it for the blend after I get the color coats on the repair area? Do I spray intercoat on the whole area that I'm going to paint,--fender --door --hood?what do I use to mask off the body line so paint doesen't blow in them?
 
Jerry, did you spray a test panel to see how close the match is? You'll need some SPI intercoat clear or DuPont's version. Are you going to blend into the hood and door? Or just the door?
 
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