How to repair peeling GM Clear?

H

HIG

My oldest son is looking at a 93 Camaro, it's maroon and the GM clear is peeling in a few places.

How do you fix this? The car does need someother body work and paint so I probably would paint the whole car. Does all the clear have to come off or just remove the peeling area? This certainly will not be a show car by any means, I'm just wondering what my options are?

Thanks, Steve
 
When clear starts to peel, nine times out of ten, it was caused by the base and of course that means the base is shot.
DA the top surfaces down to the ecoat, re-epoxy.

Bottom line, at least the base and clear must come off, or it will not last.
$2000-5000 for a normal production shop to do, so deduct that from you offer.
 
Beware that sometimes if the clear has been off for awhile,you may have small amounts of rust starting under the factory primer.(the case most of the time in my experience in Wisconsin) I always take them down to bare steel and start from scratch(have had some of the factory primers caused mapping in feathered areas also,may not be a concern if the car is going to get a cheaper budget overall paint job ).A little extra labor and material is worth it if my name is on the job.The frosting can look great,but it's only as good as the cake that's under it. Just my $.03
 
I was fresh out of auto body school in 1993 (actually 1991) and was working in a Ford dealership at the time. I remember all the 90's peelers coming thru the door of the body shop. If I remember correctly, Ford warranty was paying to take peeling surfaces to metal. GM I believe down ecoat. Bottom line, like Barry said is you need to at least take it down to the ecoat, if base has been exposed, its shot. If I remember right the cause was skipping a primer step, and material applied at too low a mil thickness for uv protection.
Since you have bodywork anyways, and once your down to the ecoat your almost to metal anyways, I personally would just take it all down to metal and start fresh. Will give you a true look at the condition of the car and any areas needing attention, and you can start off with some quality spi epoxy as the foundation for a good long lasting new paint job.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Couple more questions about it though:

Is there a "primer" between the E coat and the base?

If you have a panel that is NOT peeling (but other panels on the car are) and you do NOT strip it to the E coat or bare metal but just seal, base and clear over it could that come back to bit you, I'm assuming there would be more UV protection.

Thanks for answering my beginner questions!!!
 
Just my 0.02 here but if it is peeling in one place it will probably be peeling everywhere with time. I'm with the others for at least going to the ecoat but agree that metal would be best. However it is your choice, I understand that some customers want things done that we don't agree with all the time. Just keep in mind (especially if you are just trying to get started in this business) People will talk about and notice a great job, but they will find one better to talk about soon, but a bad job will stick with you name forever. If it fails down the road and someone asks about it, the customer is not going to say "He wanted to fix it right but I told him to just get me by" they are gonna say "so and so painted this thing"
 
You need to be careful on these cars if I remember right the roof and doors are fiberglass and the fenders are plastic. I think the only metal body parts are the quarters and maybe the hood, and it could be aluminum. It's been several years since I've worked on one.
 
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