Home garage what pressure regulator and inline filter?

[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;11344]Y'all can flame me if you want but I stand by those numbers for anyone wanting to get serious about this hobby. Can you do it with Chinese tools and products? Of course you can if that's what you choose to do.
My numbers will hold up in the end but you won't know that till you get there. Good luck.[/QUOTE]

I never flamed you, just said that it's unrealistic for a guy to spend 1600 bux on equipment to spray, at most, (in my case) 5 gallons of any sort of paint in a lifetime. I agree you get what you pay for. However, 1600 bux will buy a lot of go fast parts :)
Bill
 
LostMy65;11343 said:
Thanks for replies, guys.

I posted in another thread that I was considering rolling it after reading the opening replies to this thread that to get started I needed at the very cheapest tools $1600 to spray some $180 primer.

For under filler, I may still roll it. And let it cure for 8-12 hours, and then apply my filler.
Then, after I get a panel all cleaned up, spray coat the whole panel with epoxy.

Maybe after I get everything cleaned up and protected, I may just decide to take a class at the community college to have a reason to use their equipment. :)

Either way, I do not have $1600 to spare on my 66 truck to get a coat of epoxy on it.
I'm pretty sure everyone posting on this site spray painted a car with less than $100 worth of equipment at some point in their life. Some really beautiful work on this site is also done without a spray booth. If you have a compressor and it isn't real big, you can still paint your vehicle and it is probably better not to spend a lot on the spray gun because you need a lot more air for the expensive ones. You will need clean and dry air from whatever source you have. A good filter runs $40-50 The smaller compressors generate a lot of heat and that hot air holds a lot of moisture. You just need to cool the air and get the water out before it goes into your spray gun. You can buy a 25-foot coil of 1/2-inch copper for about $30, attach it to your compressor and hang a water separator off the end of the coil. The filter goes on the line after the separator and you should be good to spray.For extra drying, I think you could set the coil on a bag of ice. These guys seem to have pretty good prices on copper tubing:
https://coppertubingsales.com/store...cts_id=1152&osCsid=cfr6q6sviu846qe44jfdg1hl47
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;11344]Y'all can flame me if you want but I stand by those numbers for anyone wanting to get serious about this hobby. Can you do it with Chinese tools and products? Of course you can if that's what you choose to do.
My numbers will hold up in the end but you won't know that till you get there. Good luck.[/QUOTE]

I don't think anyone flamed you.
The OP asked how he could get by cheap for spraying PRIMER. You said he couldn't, others said he could. That's all.
 
Honestly, I believe 68 Coronet R/T is absolutely correct in saying if we want to spend the money and have the stuff to do the whole thing right, then a minimum of $1600 is his fair estimate.

But again, 67 Fastback wasn't asking how to do a proper set up to paint cars as a hobby. He just wants to spray some primer.

That's all I want to do - Spray just enough epoxy to preserve my one classic truck.
 
The problem is that epoxy is more like paint than what most people think of as primer. It's a tough, slow drying catalyzed material that will react to problems like water in the lines or contamination on the surface more similarly to a single state urethane than anything else. So while I sympathize with wanting to keep it inexpensive, there are certain minimum requirements that, if not met, increase the chance for problems dramatically.
 
crashtech;11357 said:
The problem is that epoxy is more like paint than what most people think of as primer. It's a tough, slow drying catalyzed material that will react to problems like water in the lines or contamination on the surface more similarly to a single state urethane than anything else. So while I sympathize with wanting to keep it inexpensive, there are certain minimum requirements that, if not met, increase the chance for problems dramatically.

That's all I'm trying to achieve.
Bill
 
You can spend the absolute least amount of money and buy the cheapest stuff,
and if you work hard and pay attention to detail, you'll still get a better paint job than
most of the cheapie paint shops like Mapco.
Sometimes "something" is better than nothing.
 
Does anyone have a link to the old forum thread on the Kitty Litter dryer? It used Crystal Cat Litter- CHEAP desiccant setup for the DIY's
 
I use a regulator at the gun and keep the regulator at the compressor set at 90. Any decent regulator at the compressor will work and a good regulator at the gun will keep the pressure constant.

CLEAN air is the key, at the least use a Motorguard filter after a bowl type air separator.

If your compressor has to run most or all of the time to keep up with the gun then you need to get the air cooled before any separators or filters.
A NEW aftermarket transmission cooler with a fan flowing through it , in line between the air compressor and the separator will do wonders to cool the air so the moisture in it can drop out. ( wash the internal passage of the cooler with laq thinner as there will be oils in there from manufacturing)

One thing with the cheapo guns, WASH the living hell out of both the air and fluid passages as more than one person has posted of fish eye problems with these type guns and that was the problem.

Using the Tyvec suit will keep the clothes clean, some crap outta your paint but I have great doubts that they provide any health protection benefits.
Water passes through them too easily for me to believe they can keep vapors off your skin
just put one on, set on the wet lawn after it has been watered and see how quickly your butt gets wet,lol.

Use a respirator with the correct cartridges for the material being sprayed. A dust mask type respirator is NOT adequate.


Enjoy!
 
Hello 67Fastback,

Did you ever decide what oil/water filters you were going to get?
 
Back
Top