Hold Tight 102 flash rust preventer

reallylongnickname

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The prouct name is, Hold Tight 102 The data sheets (attached) state that it doesn't contain phosphorus. Used during wet blasting or immediately post blasting. I'm wondering if it's safe to use prior to coating SPI epoxy primer?

I don't know if this subject has been discussed before. There's a competitor product called Chlo-rid.
 

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  • HoldTight-PDS-7-29.pdf
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You need to hear from Barry before you proceed IMO.

In the meantime. If you do a search using the Duck Duck Go search engine. You can search the site by entering whatever you want to search for followed by " site:www.spiuserforum.com" i.e. "HoldTight site:www.spiuserforum.com". You will get all sorts of threads with the mention of HoldTight. I use that method for searching all sorts of things. The SPI site drops a lot of words because they're too short or common.
 
I have used Holdtight in a spray bottle for surface rust protection, and it works, but so does Zep Industrial Purple Degrease, and its a lot cheaper. Its concentrated in one gallon jugs or 5 gallon. The one gallon jug makes 20 gallons usable product for less than $1 gal. Its about 12 ph. I spray it on before rinsing.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Zep-Industrial-Purple-Degreaser-and-Cleaner-Concentrate-128-oz/5001417355

Just don't get full strength (or close to it) Zep on your skin! Ask me how I know...
 
but so does Zep Industrial Purple Degrease, and its a lot cheaper. Its concentrated in one gallon jugs or 5 gallon. The one gallon jug makes 20 gallons usable product for less than $1 gal. Its about 12 ph. I spray it on before rinsing.
So after a good rinse and dry, the surface is more resistant to flash rust than without the Zep Purple Degreaser?
 
It's basically Lye. Sodium Hydroxide and a glycol carrier . Turns your Skin into Soap like Granny Clampett did with the cast iron wash pot on the Beverly Hillbillies using Lye and Fat.
Not something you would leave sitting on about anything for an extended time.
How I strip slot car bodies. Heavy duty Easy Off oven cleaner in a plastic container and dunk them for a day or so and removes any thing not contained in the body resin. If I'm not happy with the paint job or screw up
Something, toss it in the Tank and start over with a clean slate. Lye is the opposite end of the ph scale from Acid and just as deadly. We used both cleaning A/C condenser coils. Acid type will etch,brighten the soft metals but won't touch oils,grime and such whereas Alkaline will do both although not as bright on aluminum. Don't remember which one will turn aluminum black if a high magnesium cast like motorcycle cases and the like so be careful which you use on what. Pretty sure it was the Acid type because it came out first and a friend wanted his Honda case's " shiny " OOPPPS.
When cleaning Aluminum sheet,plate, I would use one or the other to determine what tone,light or dark, I wanted before clearing if it wasn't being polished.
 
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There are cleaners designed for aluminum, its not recommended to clean alum with acid or Zep degreaser. Length of time makes a difference though. I have gotten parts back from the zinc platter with melted alum, because they didn't see my note that said skip acid dip. Also, you need gloves with all these cleaners, and a mask too if there is a mist in the air.
So after a good rinse and dry, the surface is more resistant to flash rust than without the Zep Purple Degreaser?
It will protect against flash rust with a ph of 12, the same way as Holdtight with a ph of 10.2. Both will allow a thorough water rinse, but with Zep I would make sure to sand the metal before priming.
 
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