HF Air Dryer

I know someone who has had one for 12-18 months and has not had any problems. He put filters before it and dessicant filter after it and has not had any moisture problems at all. He put it in when he redid his airline setup.
 
He had to order online because the store didn't keep them in stock. If I remember right they shipped it to his house. Seems they even took 20% coupon.
 
i know someone who has had one for about 6 years now. still working great. he opened his up and it actually has all honeywell controls inside. not sure if the new ones are still like that today but i can say his is actually a nice unit. i was surprised.
 
I heard they were pretty good also especially for the price.

There are a couple things to look at on the unit, inlet pressure, inlet temp and cfm. Compare those Max ratings with what you have and hopefully it will work for you. I see them on EBay to.
 
El Toro;n80703 said:
Where is the best place to install the unit ? Just after compressor or near paint booth. thanks
Click to expand...

Just after the compressor with a ball valve in that line so you can service the unit if needed you might want to also design a deverter path just incase something fails so you can still keep working if the unit fails.
 
It would be good to also use a hi pressure Flex line to connect it to the compressor tank to eliminate any vibration from the compressor when it is running.
 
El Toro;n80703 said:
Where is the best place to install the unit ? Just after compressor or near paint booth. thanks
Click to expand...

You need enough air line to allow water vapor to return back to water so it can be drained. Then a filter before the dryer to catch any left. A coalescing filter also would help catch any oil from the compressor. A manual could be written on the correct way to set up your air system.
 
I got one about two years ago. I think it's one of the best purchases I've ever made as far as shop equipment. It performs flawlessly and never have issues with water in the air line. No copper tube loops taking up wall space, no copper coils in an ice bucket, no multiple water traps. In fact the one separator / filter I have downstream has never had a single drop of water come out of it.

It isn't perfect though, the one issue I had was the automatic drain. Over time it got clogged and I took it apart to clean and some parts went flying so it never worked right again (tried getting a replacement with no luck). So I replaced it with a simple piece of 1-1/2" pipe about 18" long mounted vertically on the wall with a ball valve at the bottom. So I just flip the valve every now and then to drain the water that's accumulated in the pipe.

Granted, it's not a professional shop, but it does get a lot of use. I've done quite a bit of painting, sand blasting and plasma cutting with no issues with moisture..


IMG_20140701_210827_215.jpg



IMG_20140701_210957_233.jpg
 
elwood;n80706 said:
You need enough air line to allow water vapor to return back to water so it can be drained. Then a filter before the dryer to catch any left. A coalescing filter also would help catch any oil from the compressor. A manual could be written on the correct way to set up your air system.
Click to expand...

Actually, that's the beauty of the refrigerated air dryer, it's cools the air and condenses the water out. No need for long lengths of tubing from the compressor to the dryer.
 
DATEC;n80704 said:
Just after the compressor with a ball valve in that line so you can service the unit if needed you might want to also design a deverter path just incase something fails so you can still keep working if the unit fails.
Click to expand...

So just after the compressor my booth is about 50 feet from the air compressor if that matters
 
Its all about lowering the dew point in the air. I bought one old beat up big unit that works flawlessly and a new IR from ebay as well since I figured it would be easier to get IR parts. Most of the time the automatic drains only work when you stop the air from going in, its normal to watch them pee when the compressor is turned off. Just dealing with water though, any oil mist must be stopped before entering an air dryer.
 
El Toro;n80709 said:
So just after the compressor my booth is about 50 feet from the air compressor if that matters
Click to expand...

Yes that is correct so long as the temp of the incoming air from your compressor to the drier does not exceed the driers rating. I don't fully understand the operating pressure of 100psi with 140psi Max inlet unless you lose that much pressure on the way out but with 21.6cfm Max that's real good for home use and should be able to handle pretty much anything you throw at it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-3-...Is_jMmCaGILXXQ

If you find that your incoming air temp is higher then the units rating you might need to get an after cooler and install that either between the head and tank or tank and drier. The distance from the unit to your work area is of no concern but to keep oil out of the air line you need a coalescing filter our unit at work has never had a coalescing filter before the drier and never had a problem but have one in the booth for sure and it does catch any suspended oil.
 
i found that most of those auto drain catch bowl systems suck. the condensed water from the dryer gets gunked up and they quit working after awhile. they either stick open or closed. i had 2 different ones on my drier and probably half a dozen over the past 10 years or so on various equipment. i eventually ripped the one off the compressor and the one off the dryer and put on the electronic auto drains. so much simpler and they work flawlessly now for years with zero service. every 45 min they open up for i think 2 seconds. i can set them for whatever i want.
 
I have dealt with some terrible compressors, the gunk is usually emulsified oil and needs better filtration going into the dryer.
 
Thanks to all, good information. Seems like the HF dryer may be worth it for not too many $$, I can find at least 20% off.

Jim C wrote:
i found that most of those auto drain catch bowl systems suck. the condensed water from the dryer gets gunked up and they quit working after awhile. they either stick open or closed. i had 2 different ones on my drier and probably half a dozen over the past 10 years or so on various equipment. i eventually ripped the one off the compressor and the one off the dryer and put on the electronic auto drains. so much simpler and they work flawlessly now for years with zero service. every 45 min they open up for i think 2 seconds. i can set them for whatever i want.
Click to expand...
Jim: One of the issues I found online regarding the HF unit was with the catch bowl drain you mention. I found several electric automatic drains online, which ones are you using that are giving you the good service?
 
anotheridiot;n80732 said:
I have dealt with some terrible compressors, the gunk is usually emulsified oil and needs better filtration going into the dryer.
Click to expand...
Have to agree with you on that. I'm considering one of the Motorgard filters before the dryer.
 
i got my auto drains from eaton compressor. they are nothing special believe me. not super fancy or expensive. i think they were under 100 bucks at the time. i dont remember exactly though since it was awhile ago. i just know they work great and i never have to mess with them.
 
Jim C;n80741 said:
i got my auto drains from eaton compressor. they are nothing special believe me. not super fancy or expensive. i think they were under 100 bucks at the time. i dont remember exactly though since it was awhile ago. i just know they work great and i never have to mess with them.
Click to expand...

I too use an electric auto drain. I bought mine at a local supply house but as with everything they are online too.

Here is an example of an auto drain for reference if anyone is interested:

https://aircompressorservices.com/i...z9NDgIrQV4iThuaM03sVCeRq4r0idDKpy0aAhB68P8HAQ
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top