Help me understand all the sandpaper I'll need to buy

95maxrider

95maxrider

Promoted Users
Hi everyone, I'm setting up my home garage for some painting projects but I'm struggling to wrap my head around all the different types of sandpaper that I need to buy for all of the different steps in the painting process. I think I'll probably just stick with 3M products to keep things simple unless other brands offer the same quality at much lower prices. As I understand it there are two main types of paper: the 2-3/4" sticky back stuff for blocking, and 5/6" round ones for use on a DA. What I'm not sure of is what grits I should buy for each type. Do I need all grits for each type? Or is it okay to get 80-600 for blocking work and 800-3000 for DA?

Also, I've done plenty of searching but have come up empty on finding a general "sanding guide / how-to" document or thread. Does one exist?

Lastly, where is everyone buying their paper from? A couple places I've come across are:

Welcome to Johnson Supply Company - 218-722-1717

Johnson Supply Co in Duluth, Minnesota is a Axalta Champion distributor offering Axalta Liquid Coatings (formerly DuPont) Cromax, Nason, Standox, and Axalta Industrial Coatings. Johnson Supply Co has served the auto body industry since 1962 featuring quality auto body supplies from Axalta such...
www.johnsonautobodysupply.com

Cashers Autobody Supply and Aviation Paint and Finishes

Supplier of autobody supplies, auto paint, aviation paint and finishes
www.casherspbe.com www.casherspbe.com

Auto Body Tools & Body Shop Supplies | Auto Body Toolmart

We carry the best selection of auto body tools, shop supplies, car paint, & car lifts for any garage. Call today for all your body shop needs!
www.autobodytoolmart.com

Thank you!
 
You may find, as other answers come in, that opinions vary, slightly, on this topic ;)

I would start out simple, and then see how the various grits work for you and then refine from there.

Here is my must have list to start with:

80 for bare metal and initial filler leveling
180 for next stage of filler leveling, first round of 2K/epoxy blocking and for scuffing epoxy that has cured out of the respray window
220 for 2nd round of 2k/epoxy blocking
320 for removing 220 scratches
400/600 for final sanding prior to base or single stage (most guys seem to go to 600 for metallics)
1000 for 1st round of clear/single stage cutting
1500 and 2500 for final clear/single stage cutting. Maybe Trizact 8000, before buffing compound.

For a beginner (like me!) the only stages to consider DA are 1500 and above.

You can't go wrong with the top brands; 3M, Norton, Mirka, SunMight, even if they are a bit more. I've settled on Amazon. Everything I need is there and it is just easier.

There are lots of variations, but I think that list will be a good start.
 
Thanks for the excellent answer Dean! So what's your grit range for block vs DA? 80-? for blocking and 1500+ for DA?

These rolls of blocking paper and packs of DA pads seem enormous for my hobby needs, but I guess once I place my initial order I'll never have to place another again!
 
Dean Jenkins said:
You may find, as other answers come in, that opinions vary, slightly, on this topic ;)

I would start out simple, and then see how the various grits work for you and then refine from there.

Here is my must have list to start with:

80 for bare metal and initial filler leveling
180 for next stage of filler leveling, first round of 2K/epoxy blocking and for scuffing epoxy that has cured out of the respray window
220 for 2nd round of 2k/epoxy blocking
320 for removing 220 scratches
400/600 for final sanding prior to base or single stage (most guys seem to go to 600 for metallics)
1000 for 1st round of clear/single stage cutting
1500 and 2500 for final clear/single stage cutting. Maybe Trizact 8000, before buffing compound.

For a beginner (like me!) the only stages to consider DA are 1500 and above.

You can't go wrong with the top brands; 3M, Norton, Mirka, SunMight, even if they are a bit more. I've settled on Amazon. Everything I need is there and it is just easier.

There are lots of variations, but I think that list will be a good start.
Click to expand...
Good list.
I personally stay with 500 grit increments for clear coat sanding: 1000, 1500 and 2000.
Also, I use 600 grit for final sanding before paint regardless of the type.
 
95maxrider said:
Thanks for the excellent answer Dean! So what's your grit range for block vs DA? 80-? for blocking and 1500+ for DA?

These rolls of blocking paper and packs of DA pads seem enormous for my hobby needs, but I guess once I place my initial order I'll never have to place another again!
Click to expand...
Glad to help! I've received so much help here I'm glad to put back in what I can.

The grits above 1000 are not for leveling, just for removing scratches from the previous grit. That is when I'll use a DA and only on the big, open areas. Close to body lines etc., I do it with a soft hand pad. For the DA I prefer hook and loop on a soft interface pad.
Everything else, on sanding blocks, I prefer the self-stick paper.

You'll be surprised how much sandpaper you end up using. It is important to "let the paper do the work" and as soon as it stops cutting easily, replace it.
 
Oh, and at what point do people switch from dry to wet sanding? Is it ever possible/advisable to only do dry?
 
95maxrider said:
Oh, and at what point do people switch from dry to wet sanding? Is it ever possible/advisable to only do dry?
Click to expand...
That is a "coke or pepsi" question ;)
Everyone has a method that they like and that works for them.

I've pretty much stopped all wet sanding, except Trizact 8000 at the very end.

I like how I can see what is happening with dry sanding (vs. having to wipe down the panel and let it dry with wet sanding.)
And for the finish grits, I've switched to Eagle Asilex/Buflex which are a dry system.
 
I've got a bit of a followup question regarding DA sanding. I currently have a 5" Makita random orbital sander with 8 holes and vacuum:


And this 6" rotary buffer:


I think I'm going to try and copy JimC's method:

Eagle yellow 1000 dry
Assilex 1500 dry
Buflex 2500 dry
Trizact 8000 wet

But I'm not sure which of my two tools I should be using, and at what speed they should be set for each step. The Eagle/Assilex/Buflex discs don't come in a 5"/8 hole pattern, which renders my vacuum function useless. Can I work with my tools, or I should buy something different? Any usage tips would be appreciated!
 
It is hard to find quality automotive 5" DA paper. All 5" are woodworking tools and paper. Pnuematic 6" DA, no vacuum, 3/16" orbit, the most common. The more you spend, the smoother, and longevity you get.
 
95maxrider said:
I've got a bit of a followup question regarding DA sanding. I currently have a 5" Makita random orbital sander with 8 holes and vacuum:


And this 6" rotary buffer:


I think I'm going to try and copy JimC's method:

Eagle yellow 1000 dry
Assilex 1500 dry
Buflex 2500 dry
Trizact 8000 wet

But I'm not sure which of my two tools I should be using, and at what speed they should be set for each step. The Eagle/Assilex/Buflex discs don't come in a 5"/8 hole pattern, which renders my vacuum function useless. Can I work with my tools, or I should buy something different? Any usage tips would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
A simple solution would be to use sheets on the Eagle block and hand pad.

I got this kit to get started and liked it a lot:

Then do the Trizact 8000 wet with the DA
 
95maxrider said:
I've got a bit of a followup question regarding DA sanding. I currently have a 5" Makita random orbital sander with 8 holes and vacuum:


And this 6" rotary buffer:


I think I'm going to try and copy JimC's method:

Eagle yellow 1000 dry
Assilex 1500 dry
Buflex 2500 dry
Trizact 8000 wet

But I'm not sure which of my two tools I should be using, and at what speed they should be set for each step. The Eagle/Assilex/Buflex discs don't come in a 5"/8 hole pattern, which renders my vacuum function useless. Can I work with my tools, or I should buy something different? Any usage tips would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
One small note. JimC used the Assilex and Buflex wet because they cut longer. I used then dry because it is easier for my old eyes to see what is going on. I only do one or two cars a year so I don’t mind using more discs.

6” DA with a 3/16 orbit is what you want as Texas stated above.

Don
 
Thanks for the tips everyone! It looks like the good ones are pretty needy in terms of CFM. My compressor is rated at 19 CFM so it should be able to keep up, but it made me wonder about an electric model. If you've got any feedback on the three models below, I'd love to hear it.

3M

Dynabrade

Electric Bosch

I'm guessing the Bosch isn't really what I need.
 
95maxrider said:
Thanks for the tips everyone! It looks like the good ones are pretty needy in terms of CFM. My compressor is rated at 19 CFM so it should be able to keep up, but it made me wonder about an electric model. If you've got any feedback on the three models below, I'd love to hear it.

3M

Dynabrade

Electric Bosch

I'm guessing the Bosch isn't really what I need.
Click to expand...
I use the Dynabrade--mine is good functioning tool, durable, well made in the USA. Where i live--these sell for $60 barely used in most pawnshops same for the Detroit and Hutchins. Often--you get a couple of boxes of papers as well thrown in.
 
dhutton01 said:
One small note. JimC used the Assilex and Buflex wet because they cut longer. I used then dry because it is easier for my old eyes to see what is going on. I only do one or two cars a year so I don’t mind using more discs.

6” DA with a 3/16 orbit is what you want as Texas stated above.

Don
Click to expand...

For that sanding process, during what steps are you using an interface pad? And roughly what percentage of the final sanding process is done by hand? Do I need to buy a whole 'nother set of paper for hand sanding in the difficult areas, or can the 6" DA do those areas if you're careful? What about 3" discs, are they "needed"?
 
95maxrider said:
For that sanding process, during what steps are you using an interface pad? And roughly what percentage of the final sanding process is done by hand? Do I need to buy a whole 'nother set of paper for hand sanding in the difficult areas, or can the 6" DA do those areas if you're careful? What about 3" discs, are they "needed"?
Click to expand...
I use an interface pad for everything. If I have to do any hand sanding I use Tolecut squares to reach the hard to reach areas and edges. I tape my edges to avoid cutting through and then give them a quick pass with the Tolecut squares. I avoid hand sanding like the plague… :)

You can get Tolecut sheets etc on eBay.
www.ebay.com

Kovax Tolecut Finish Repair System, Set of 6 Sheets w/ 2 Toleblock Blocks | eBay

Kovax Tolecut Finish Repair System, Set of 6 Tolecut Sheets and 2 Toleblock Sanding blocks. Set of six Tolecut sheets includes 1 sheet of each of the following grits: 800, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000-grit.
www.ebay.com

Keep in mind I’m a backyard hack and shoot for nice driver quality.

Don
 
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