Harder body filler for metal.

JGR

New Member
I had a rookie mistake using all metal. I mixed it exactly as the instructions said, and it cured within 30 seconds. View attachment 12361

you can see here where it cured too quick. instructions said 3 minutes, but it was very hot and humid when i applied it. apparently temperature affects the cure time....who knew..ha!

View attachment 12364

View attachment 12363

I mixed in less hardener here and it spread good.

View attachment 12362

here I put less hardener in and when i started sanding it about 3 hours later, it was still gummy.

View attachment 12365
Don't feel bad, like I said previously been using it for many years and it still sometimes bites me in the but. it takes a while to get the hang of the hardener. And yes on hot days it will kick much faster. keep up the great job
 

giggity

Member
Don't feel bad, like I said previously been using it for many years and it still sometimes bites me in the but. it takes a while to get the hang of the hardener. And yes on hot days it will kick much faster. keep up the great job
do you know if I can apply layers of all metal?

what i did was sand most of the old all metal off with 80 grit, then wiped down with wax and grease remover, then reapplied all metal on top. Will it stick to previous sanded all metal filler?
 

Jim C

Oldtimer
it will stick but wipe with acetone. if the acetone softens it and starts wiping it off then you need to take the rest off. a polyester resin like that should be able to take an all day bath in acetone and not harm it. any 1/2 cured material that is covered over will come back to bite you
 

giggity

Member
it will stick but wipe with acetone. if the acetone softens it and starts wiping it off then you need to take the rest off. a polyester resin like that should be able to take an all day bath in acetone and not harm it. any 1/2 cured material that is covered over will come back to bite you
hmm...well poop....I already reapplied it.
 
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Slofut

Active Member
You got to get all that gummy stuff out. Then id fill with p17 and go with it. All metal nor metal to metal will impart any strength to that joint. At least p17 would to a certain extent, otherwise just a good filler. Or lead...
 

giggity

Member
You got to get all that gummy stuff out. Then id fill with p17 and go with it. All metal nor metal to metal will impart any strength to that joint. At least p17 would to a certain extent, otherwise just a good filler. Or lead...
I sanded most of it out, but there was still some left in, and it was sand-able, not gummy. Not really going for strength, I welded the whole seam, then hit it with a flap disk. dont judge my welds...lol

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Slofut

Active Member
Giggity, with those welds I would use Evercoat Poly Flex there. It's much more flexible especially in thicker areas, I'm thinking there is going to be some movement around those welds.
 

giggity

Member
Giggity, with those welds I would use Evercoat Poly Flex there. It's much more flexible especially in thicker areas, I'm thinking there is going to be some movement around those welds.
hmm, I welded so there isnt any movement...I dunno. I was told from a guy who does second gen camaros to use all metal. I was actually going to use duraglass(i think). I was kinda talked out of it.

I do have subframe connectors, so hopefully the twist will be minimal.
 
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