Graphics / Rally Stripes and Light Deviation

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LITJOHN

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When applying graphics specifically rally stripes, is a small amount of light deviation expected after the cut and buff process is complete?

Reason I ask is I put rally stripes on the Chevelle I'm working on. When under fluorescent lighting (day light bulbs ) and you're standing at a angle to the hood and moving so the light passes over the stripe you can see a deviation / step / lightning bolt reflection.

I figured this was normal because of the step in the height of the base. The clear was cut going with the stripe not against it all the way until the 3000 was starting to be used. You can't really see it out in the sunlight or when you're inline with the stripe.

More food for my old brain, thanks.
John
 
typically you will see it unless you hard block the clear with 1000 or coarser as your starting point for your color saning OR you clear it, block with 400 and reclear. typically with graphics i want to have flat i always clear twice blocking between. that will always give the best result.
 
Thanks Jim
About 2 weeks ago I had a fubar on a fender extension so I double checked everything at that time since I had to blend base and reshoot the clear on the extension. Wasn't satisfied with the hood so I blocked it lightly with 600 and reshot it at the same time. When done I blocked it starting with 600 all the way through 2000. Then jumped to 3000 and 5000 with a DA.
It's not much....but you can see it at a angle. Couple of pic's

Thanks
John

Stripes 3.jpg

Stripes 2.jpg

Stripes 1.jpg
 
I have only been able to completely eliminate line with a re-clear. Basically i will lay out the stripes(or whatever it is), lay out 3-4 coats of clear, block with 800 flat and re-clear.

Every time I have tried to bury it with a single clear session they always come back. Usually very subtle, but enough to keep me up at night where I go back out to the shop at 3am and prep the panel for a re-clear, lol
 
"I have only been able to completely eliminate line with a re-clear. Basically i will lay out the stripes(or whatever it is), lay out 3-4 coats of clear, block with 800 flat and re-clear"

That's what I did with this one, except the hood was all the way buffed. Covered with a sheet and was working on the rest of it. Then went back and double checked everything and wasn't satisfied with it. Tried hitting it a few times with 1500-3000 and then said the heck with and hit it lightly with 600 and started over with 4 coats of clear....
I been working on it this morning for about 3 hrs and it's straighting out bit by bit. Going slow using 2000 -5000 and then checking it again.
Now I'm back to hating the car!!! Oh well.

Thanks guys
 
Use as Thin a masking as possible for the edge,retape off It for your paper and use a vinyl tape or mask that is Cut Straight because most Tape has a ragged edge which WILL SHOW or Divits,Kinks,ANY deformation on your tape edge is the quickest road to Failure..
Doing these slot car body's has taught me a lot actually about base build up,and I'm using All the Same products you are, and no longer than the mask is on and no multiple colors,graphics can do a 2 tone without hardly any edge or not even visible and need to use a cover stripe to hide it because color sanding These is not realistic.
The cheap vinyl or cheap tape works best. I was concerned about Solvents also effecting the Tape since I over reduce Everything using an airbrush but unless I just get ignorant and do a really Heavy Flow Coat of Reducer over the Clear,have had zero issues
I throw on some 3M or other 'standard automotive' tapes and I have a butt load of build at the edge which unless you color sand that Edge,is what your noticing.
Not so much the graphic but build thickness but the tape edge.
Just what I've learned.
Couple I just finished.
 

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Hey Mike, nice models!!
I used 3m fine line vinyl tape and did have some glue residue issues. The deck lid came out fine but having a time of it getting the hood straightened out but it's getting there!! :)
 
Thanks. Keeps me out of trouble.
The vinyl tapes have a smooth edge for this but are not all that solvent resistant and have a tendency to come loose on a tight radius.
Masking tape is quite different Now than say,10 years ago.
Even the HF cheap tape is reasonably solvent resistant.
Do a test panel with different tapes and See for yourself.
Masking tape that is,Not Latex 'painters tape'.
I've used clear packing tape for masking cutouts so I could See underneath It.
Just ran into This stepping out on my patio an hour ago.
Ahhh,the Country Life.....
 

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MikeK said:
Thanks. Keeps me out of trouble.
The vinyl tapes have a smooth edge for this but are not all that solvent resistant and have a tendency to come loose on a tight radius.
Masking tape is quite different Now than say,10 years ago.
Even the HF cheap tape is reasonably solvent resistant.
Do a test panel with different tapes and See for yourself.
Masking tape that is,Not Latex 'painters tape'.
I've used clear packing tape for masking cutouts so I could See underneath It.
Just ran into This stepping out on my patio an hour ago.
Ahhh,the Country Life.....
Click to expand...

Now who in their right mind would throw a dead copperhead snake on your patio?

Just remember, if it doesn't have a rattle on its tail, it's a cobra!
 
3M 218 works nice for a fine line tape. Comes in a variety of widths. The 3M blue vinyl tape will stretch and I always have a hard time masking straight lines with it.
 
We've got a few snakes here too, mainly black/corn, and bull snakes, some garter but their mainly in the city. Rattlers are out in Western Neb.

The 3m 218 or the 3m Precision is probably what I should of used, I won't be using the blue fine line vinyl again. The car came with D88 stripes from the factory sooo figured what the heck put um on.
 
218 is good for straight lines and smooth surfaces only. Its really rigid to give you the straightest line possible. If the tape i erlaps itself anywhere it doesnt seal well at the joint because its so stiff. The precision is washi tape. Ultra thin but also for straight lines. The 471 and 471+ which i guess is what you were using is for curvy stuff. I Use both of them everyday. I use so much in fact that i just bought a massive case of 144 rolls of 1/2”. i really dont see a difference between the old 471 and the + so save your money.
 
Thanks Jim
Your right!! 471+ it worked really well, sealed good on the overlaps as you said. Just the residue issue I had with it. I shot the stripes and left it long enough to flash and then pulled it. It didn't matter how I pulled, back against it's self or at a 45 back. Still left residue. IDK if it was a bad lot, old or just me, probably the latter. Ended up retaping it and using W&G remover to get it off. Doing that soften the edges which was ok cuz their more of a ghost stripe anyway.

John
 
Weird, i have never had it leave residue that i can recall but i tape on the same surface all the time. Maybe if its applied to fresh base that still has solvent in it or some other surface. Not too sure
 
It was applied to clear that was blocked/scuffed. Was in random areas, and also had some areas that the residue was just on the edges (creep). Here's a couple of pic's.

Hood Glue Residue.jpg

Hood3.jpg
 
Actually one of my closest neighbors is capable of it. Real 'card he is.
Copperhead is the most Beautiful of Snakes and pain me to kill Them but with Children under 5 around practically daily,must eliminate ANY threats of this sort.
I did let the Black snake of 4' slide a couple weeks ago. Reason I don't have Mice around. Just don't tell my Wife though.
 
471 too and another called American by intertape something,just like 471 but cheaper, my old jobber carried that was ok.
I also used 3m Scotch 233+. A green fine line masking tape that was decent. Heck I tried everything because I really stunk on pinstriping and needed to at least outline the outside edge to look half arse.
Remember when the 'slash striping was popular, that I could do no problem. Lol..
Was the 218 a real light greenish not quite white color? I have some rolls of tape but no idea what brand and I bought mostly 3m then as I knew the regional rep and he may have given me them.
Great thing about being a hvac guy,Everybody needs cooling. And I needed paint stuff.
 
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