Getting euro 2020 to lay slicker

Vanillagorilla

Vanillagorilla

Professional amatuer
Hi. I recently used Euro 2020 for the first time. I yielded a nice finish pretty close to OEM peel. For this project, its very acceptable. But a lot of my projects require a slicker finish. I know that HS clears are generally a little tougher to lay down. I sprayed it with a 1.3 out of a DV1 clear gun. I will be using this clear again for another repair in a few weeks. I can slow my speed a little. Another member suggested using a 1.4 tip which I have on hand as well. Was wondering if anyone else was using DV1 clear with this clearcoat and what tip and pressure youre using?
I attached a few pics of the panel I just sprayed. Being a lighter color, its a little hard to see the finish. Thanks.

Edit: Temp when sprayed was low 70's. Slow activater and reducer 4.1.1
 

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Go up to 4:1:1.5., believe it or not less fluid and faster with more overlap will give you slicker with Euro. And definitely go up to 1.4. Try upper 20s for psi at gun, study shop forums about not having a wall regulator till gun, or at least having it wide open.
 
Ok, some good things to try. Thanks.
Im shooting at upper 20s at the inlet already. As far as air volume, thats not an issue.
 
I created a post on here a couple years ago about slicking out a vertical hanging panel like you have pictured here. I was advised to look for smaller droplets to fill in until it's slick. I used to spray clear at 29 psi but now u spray it at 35 psi and I get better results. Still very much an amateur but it is a noticeable difference between 29 and 35 psi. Try it out
 
Like the boys mentioned above, more air pressure, less fluid, 75% overlap. IMO Euro is the easiest to spray of the SPI clears (haven't tried the speed though). That tailgate looks pretty good BTW. :)
 
Two other things to look at.
Temp of clear! If stored with no heat every 10 degrees below 70, it can increase viscosity by 10 to 15%, and even more, reducer will not solve the issue.
Subsequent use NO internal strainers; if disposable cup, some pop out and some pull out.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Ill put all that into consideration. And yes Barry Im using disposable cups so I will take the strainer out next time.
 
Vanillagorilla said:
Thanks for the info guys. Ill put all that into consideration. And yes Barry Im using disposable cups so I will take the strainer out next time.
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Re strainers getting rid of them will make the nastier metallics lay easier also.
There is no positive reason ever to use a filter in the gun.
 
AAE said:
Barry, what's a good way to warm product before use?
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For you a heat plate if you have 110 in van.
Or warm water in a pan.
Or leave product on or by heat register in house over night.
 
Those vertical panels look really good. I usually spray Euro 4:1:1.5-2, but those results you got there look great!

I've always accepted that sanding out a tight peal is car easier than sanding out urethane wave and runs!
 
orangejuiced86 said:
Those vertical panels look really good. I usually spray Euro 4:1:1.5-2, but those results you got there look great!

I've always accepted that sanding out a tight peal is car easier than sanding out urethane wave and runs!
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yea im happy with the results on this panel, being just a replacement gate on a stock truck. I think the finish will look good against the stock finish. I just want to get this clear really dialed in for when I do paint work on vehicles that requirw better than OEM finish. What Im saying is, I despise cutting and buffing, lol.
 
RosharonRooster said:
I'm convinced that anything show quality needs to be cut and buffed. I'm not fooled by the cool videos on IG with the out the gun clear coat....maybe I'm wrong...
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Yea, show quality def cut and buff. My goal when I paint (except for full out show quality) is to lay it down good enough to where I dont need to buff except for denibbing debris. Im no pro but sometimes I get lucky. Nothing is perfect. All comes down to what finish youre trying to achieve.
 
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