Finished spraying my car, time to sand and buff. Just making sure I know what to do.

R

RWDXTACY

I have buffed plenty of cars but this paint job cost a lot (to me that is), so i want to make sure when i color sand and buff it is the correct way.


here is the sand paper I have... 1000,1500,2000,2500, then 3000 3m DA pads. I plan to use the 1000 only on problem areas. The SPI clear layed out flat so i think I will just start at 1500 everywhere that does not require 1000 to make corrections. I am going to use one of those 3m sponge blocks. Good idea? I like them because I dont want to burn any edges. I plan on color sanding the car then letting it sit in the sun for a couple hours before buffing. I hear thats good to do.



As far as buffing I have a dewalt rotary and a porter cable DA. I have lake country pads for the DA and just a wool pad for the rotary buffer. Here is my plan as far as compounding and polishing..... Hit the car with a cutting compound and the wool pad on the rotary at 1400-1600 rpms with Mcguires 105 compound. Following that I will hit it with a polish and the DA with a polishing pad and mcquires 205 polish. following that I will use some Klasse sealant. I will wait for that to cure then hit it with some pinacle carnuba wax with a waxing pad with the DA. The only thing I am wary of is the choice of Mcguires compounds. Is that a good choice for fresh paint? I have had good luck with this product before but if someone knows of a much better product please let me know. Any critiques to my plan that will help me will be much appreciated!!!!


-thanks
 
Everyone has their favorite but I have been using Meguiars (105 followed by 205). If you have it already then use it. I also use their "Quik Detailer" before you can wax. Very satisfied whether it's fresh paint or just detailing with their products. I'm going to try Chemical guys next time I buy. I understand they have smaller "trial" size bottles. Used to be a 3M only user (Perfect-It etc..).
I really only use a rotary (have DA too used more for detailing) and have made the switch over to pads (usually LC)and also now use a DA (usually to 3000 grit) but I have stubbornly hung on to use a wool pad for the first go round with 105. Probably not needed and some would argue that I'm working backwards (3000 on a DA THEN wool?) but I change slowly and it works great for me lol.
How many coats of clear? Euro? Universal? Flow coated?
Don't wait too long if it's Euro. I find that gets real harder quicker. Still buffs nice but seems like more work to me. Good luck with your project.
 
a wool pad can create 1500 grit or worse scratches . it was hard for me to let go but when i discovered it was polishing faster but creating those scratches it had to go. i found myself working to get rid of rogue scratches that came from the pad not paper .
 
Yeh I see now why the wool pad would be counter productive if I am sanding all the way to 3000. So should I just use my DA to do the whole thing? I have cutting pads, polish pads and waxing/finishing pads all from lake country. Or do you think I need to hit it with my rotary first with medium cutting pad before the DA?


thanks!
 
if you can control it a rotary is fine . i use the orange pad with vseries 32-34-36 the black pad with 38 .
cant help with the mcquires as i use nothing they sell .
 
You could try the Mequiars maroon foam pad with the rotary and 105 for the heavy work and then go to the DA with yellow or black foam or microfiber pad with the 205 for finishing.
 
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