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Euro 2020 Clear Without Reducer

#21
Don't get me wrong, it looks good. Its just the texture at certain angles looks off. More texture than a factory paintjob. It went on smooth, just when it dries it always seems to change just a little bit. The hood isn't like glass, but didn't seem to change after it dried.
 
#24
Fresh can of medium activator and medium reducer all SPI products. I just didn't know if buffing was a requirement when reducing the Euro or why the panel I shot that wasn't reduced dried differently. I did shoot it with a 1.3 SATA, but those run larger anyways and it looked how I wanted it before I put it out in the sun. I'm not a scientist, not sure how the chemicals are supposed to change when curing.
 
#25
If it's over 70 (for a complete) then use at least the slow act and the 895 reducer. On the last coat you can add some retarder to help it flow more.
Barry's mantra is: slower is faster.

It dried differently because you had a ton of solvent trying to escape through a coating that was drying faster than is beneficial.
 
#26
I wouldn't call mixing the reducer within the recommended ratios "a ton" of solvent. The weather was high humidity temp greater than 70 but less than 90. I believe that should be in the range of the medium reducer as well? If this is a normal tradeoff for adding a high amount of reducer to the Euro then thats fine, I'm just trying to figure out what to expect. Heres a closeup of what I'm talking about...keep in mind this trunklid didn't have the texture when applied, only once it dried. From 5 feet it looks great and would pass as acceptable with most people. Basecoat sat over night, so I know no solvents trapped from there. Do I need a slower reducer, or do I just need to break out the buffer?
 
#27
Definitely need to go slower product. My general rule is that the appropriate temp for act/reducer selection is +/- 5 degrees on either side of the product number. So 870 is for 65-75 degrees. Add in that you're using a 1.3, which i get can be larger in a SATA, you're squeezing some of the solvent by the finer atomization. Get the slow with 895. Put some retarder in for the last coat.
 
#28
Thanks for the response, I had always assumed the reducer speeds had more to do with the application process. As in allowing enough time to move about the car while spraying without it drying too fast. What do you mean by squeezing the solvent with the smaller tip? I had always assumed that recommendation for tip size was to do with application ease and function, not to do with the effects of drying later. Any other reasons for using the 1.4 with the Euro? The application process was not a problem for me. I did one medium-wet coat then one wet coat allowing time for the clear to tack in between. I keep getting the same problem with the Euro, so clearly I'm doing something wrong. It goes on great, then dries and changes. I guess I need to keep a variety of reducers in stock and be more careful with the weather conditions. Didn't know if Barry had any other tips or ideas?
 
#30
Just as a conclusion.....
I ended up wetsanding the entire car with 2000 then 3000. Buffed with cheapo foam pads and am very happy with the results. The orangepeel texture is "better" than factory and is the look I was going for. I also wetsanded the headlights with 600 and shot with the unreduced euro and am unbelievably happy with the results. Customer was giddy when she saw the finished product.



 
#31
I spray both UV and Euro. I prefer Euro 4:1:1 or 4:1:0.5. Somewhere in that range. The longer you let the base go, even overnight the better. I know it can't always be done. I used to be a "production" shop but no longer. If I have to go the same day, I try to base early and clear after lunch and assemble around 3:30. If not pushed for time, I let base sit overnight. The main difference I see in UV is ease of buffing, especially after days. The more you reduce any clear, the more in draws in based on what I've done over the years.
 
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