Epoxy vs 2K build primer and blocking

R

robking

Promoted Users
Hello folks,

Newbie and finally in the process of body filler to first panel. Quarter panel was bare metal then
2 coats black SPI epoxy. First round of body filler (evercoat rage ultra xtra) was pretty successful
but felt like I had a lot of sand through, so hit the bare spots with 80 grit DA and applied another
2 coats black epoxy.

Currently block sanding the 2nd round of epoxy (4 days in to 7 day window), and have a few blatant
(shiny) lows that will need filler. My question is around spots that are just a little low where the
epoxy is scratched but clearly not like the surrounding areas. Are these ok to leave for 2K build
primer to take care of? Here's an example below. Before shooting more paint over this spot you
would have to scuff it of course but is this the sort of thing 2K high build will handle?

For the record the car is not intended to be a show car, just a weekend warrior. Purposely chose
Porsche speed yellow for final color to help hide imperfections. I'm not getting any younger and
would really like to drive it vs work on it. ;) So trying to not create more work for myself than
necessary.

Thanks as always, I hope one day to be confident enough to actually help answer questions for
folks like me.

PXL_20230909_193406804.jpg
 
Run your hand over the lows, if you can feel them it would be better to use some glaze to fill them, rather than trying to fill them with 2K urethane primer. That being said, the spots in the pic don't look real low, but it's hard to actually advise without laying hands on it. Like Rooster said above it would be a good idea to just hit the 80 grit areas quickly with some 150-`180. Just quick, don't try getting everything out. You will use less product (2K) that way and don't have to worry about those type of scratches coming back as the primer shrinks.
 
Thanks Rooster/Chris.

Chris had suggested a while back that I pick up some Evercoat Metal Glaze, I decided to hit all those lows with it. Turns out it took longer to type the forum post up than it did to mud/sand those spots. :) As Rooster pointed out, with four coats of epoxy on there, that particular one blocked out before getting to metal. Like Chris said, it was shallow enough I couldn't feel it with a glove going over it, which seems to be a good indicator you can block it out.

Going forward I'm going to shoot for getting a clean 180 block of the epoxy. Hopefully that up front effort pays off when I get to blocking the 2K. One things for sure, blocking the SPI epoxy is like working with glaze compared to the Nason epoxy I started the project with. No comparison.
 
robking said:
One things for sure, blocking the SPI epoxy is like working with glaze compared to the Nason epoxy I started the project with. No comparison.
Click to expand...
I am looking forward to using SPI products. Everything I have used until now has been PPG Shop Line. I have no faults with the 2K primer or the single stage paints. The Shop Line epoxy is impossible to sand in my experience.
 
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