Epoxy as sealer with delay laying basecoat?

[Top-Gun]

Good morning,

I'm prepping some panels for a project with the intention of doing all the bodywork/prime/prep myself, and farming out the base & clear to a pro. I mechnically stripped the panels via DA down to OEM primer, cleaned thoroughly, and then began following the tech sheet instructions starting with two wet coats of epoxy. I let the epoxy dry for 5 days, and touched up a couple low spots with some glazing putty. I then layed down 2 coats of 2K regular build prime, blocking out with 220 through 400.

If I continue following the tech instructions, I would ideally over reduce some epoxy at this point and lay it down as a seal coat. Problem is, I'm not going to be laying the basecoat and I can't guarantee the shop doing it will spray within the recoat window for the epoxy sealer. What is my best option for my final stage before dropping the panels off to have the base/clear sprayed?

Is leaving the 400 grit sanded 2K prime as the final stage ok? Alternativley, if I shoot the epoxy sealer and let it fully cure but give it a light block sand (400 or 600 grit) will I still get good adhesion of the base coat?

If it matters, the base will be waterborne RM ONYX (pure black). Thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

[Barry]

I would wait and let the painter shoot the epoxy as a sealer day he paints.

 

[old soul]

I would prefer to have the parts delivered as not sanded, epoxy or 2K, and after I sand and clean it, then epoxy seal and paint as Barry said.

 

[Chad.S]

I would do the same, isn't Onyx the stuff you can convert to solvent and vice versa? That doesn't make much sense to me.

 

[Top-Gun]

Thanks for the replies all,

I have a feeling I may run into difficulty trying to get the painter to use a product they don't spray in the shop (based on the fact I wanted to supply SPI clear and they refused to use it).

As another option, could I use the 2K sealer as the final coat, wet sand out any nibs/trash, and gray scotchbrite the whole thing prior to delivering for base coat?

 

[Jorge M.]

Thanks for the replies all,

I have a feeling I may run into difficulty trying to get the painter to use a product they don't spray in the shop (based on the fact I wanted to supply SPI clear and they refused to use it).

As another option, could I use the 2K sealer as the final coat, wet sand out any nibs/trash, and gray scotchbrite the whole thing prior to delivering for base coat?

You could very well do that, use the 2K sealer as a final coat of primer I guess.

I have no idea what the difference might be in adhesion since it's not going wet on wet and most likely the onyx will be mixed as waterborne.

As a side note, most painters I have met that shoot Onyx they prefer to mix it as waterborne because it has better hiding power, when mixed as a solvent base they tell me you have to add too much binder and other additive and the hiding power goes to crap.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Thanks for the replies all,

I have a feeling I may run into difficulty trying to get the painter to use a product they don't spray in the shop (based on the fact I wanted to supply SPI clear and they refused to use it).

As another option, could I use the 2K sealer as the final coat, wet sand out any nibs/trash, and gray scotchbrite the whole thing prior to delivering for base coat?

Find a shop that will work with you. You'll get a much better job if you let the painter seal it. Personally I wouldn't take on the job if I couldn't seal it myself.