epoxy arg !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i would not have fisheye eliminator within 5 miles. used to use that in the old enamel days. caused more problems than it ever fixed. i put 2 coats of clear on to sand out. i'll take my air system apart and completely drain my compressor to see whats going on. i honestly have not had these problems for many years. how do you use toilet paper as a filter? do you have a canister for it inline or something. it may be oil but i dont know how water would get by 2 water seperaters and a gun filter. i gonna try swabbing my pipe like shine says and see what i get. that don't sound right. swab my air pipe i meant.
 
I believe the "toilet paper filter" is a reference to the Motor Guard M-60 filter. Has a filter element that looks like a toilet paper roll:
M60 filter.jpg
 
no , it is a canister that you put a roll of toilet paper in. i have used them since the 70's. believe me nothing gets past it. it will soak up moisture fast. it is my last defense in the booth. i put a fresh roll in before every job. i will have one close to the compressor when i move it . if your getting oil vapor it will have a yellow tint to it.
 
Shine, post up a pic if you can, I've never seen any toilet paper filters besides the old motor oil bypass setups they started selling in the 60's.
 
my apologies to 68 coronet. it is in fact a motoguard filter. i just never used their filter. toliet paper works much better and cost a hell of a lot less. been so long i forgot the mfg of them.
their filters are 16 dollars, i can buy a lot of toilet paper for that.
 
I have used the MotorGuard filter setup for many years, also. I have been able to overwhelm the filter element and start spitting water with a lot of DA sanding. My compressor will run hot with that much continuous use. But if you do like shine and replace before finish spraying you wont have a problem.
 
The Crystal Cat Litter dryer one of the members on the old forum posted about- works well, I have one in the shop that I made up for shits and grins after reading that thread and installed a water trap after it and there's never been any water found in that trap. $12/year for anybody looking for a cheap way out, add a motorguard filter like Shine recommends just in case if you're worried. I was always to cheap to buy new desiccant years ago and would dry it out in the oven for reuse, then I started buying the disposable desiccant snakes and a new hose on every important shoot, PVC hoses are cheap and you can move them from paint only to regular shop duty when a replacement is bought, but I sure like the flexilla hose now. One of my watertraps is from the 40's a huge brass Devilbiss unit that would be hard to replace.
 
Another thing about oil, compressor oil! I've used Lubriplate, regular non detergent 30wt, IR oil, but if you are running the compressor hard and viscosity goes south, oil heats creating vapor, it will pump some oil past the rings. I found out the the best by far compressor oil out there is Amsoil synthetic compressor oil, they sell it in 20 and 30wt and I notice a large improvement in what the water looks like when I drain the tank. The pump on my main compressor is a 1975 vintage Wayne/Emglo that I rebuilt once and I'll probably do it again in 10-15 years, a very good pump.
 
Basically a piece of pipe with caps and screen to hold the litter in, I made mine out of some scrap 3" threaded pipe, 4 feet long, two caps, cut some screen to fit in the cap-I used some minivan/caravan speaker grille screen LOL as it was fairly fine and all I had on hand at the time, I layered three pieces of screen. I drilled and tapped the caps for 1/2" pipe thread but you could just buy the right ones. Put a cap on, fill the pipe to the top, put the other cap on and blow some air through it to get any desicant/litter dust out then hook it up to your air supply. You could make it with a union for easier emptying and filling, quick disconnects for the air. Basically just a resivior to hold the litter/desicant. I think the original poster used larger diameter pipe but I have to say the junk setup I put together works just fine, clean dry air. If you're worried about any litter particles coming out of the resivior a basic Sharpe 880 water/particulate trap http://www.amazon.com/Sharpe-880A-Control-Filter-Model/dp/B000FMLV6K or similar will catch them or Shine's toilet paper filter but I haven't seen any accumulation in my traps. If it works it works bottom line, glad I tried it.
 
2.jpg

well i swabbed my pipe and no oil. a little moisture but not soaking wet. i blew air into a white cloth for about a minute and nothing . i sanded out the trunk lid and cleared with some house of kolor clear i had . same hose, same gun, no fisheyes. 19 pounds at supernova with trigger pulled . is this uv clear really sensitive to moisture ?
 
Thanks Bob that is a darn good idea. Right now i have something like the sharpe you suggested and a motorguard tp filter. I dont think i have had any moisture problems so far but i plan to make one of those anyway. I do not have proper plumbing...just some air hose.
 
I haven't seen SPI clears sensitive to anything but maybe you've got some SPI sabatoge going on there? If your problems are only with SPI products maybe they have become contaminated? By who? Do you have any enemy's? I've seen the results of product tampering in the past, silica sand in buffing compound, air tool oil in paint, booth filters sprayed down with WD40...
 
shine;19256 said:
no , it is a canister that you put a roll of toilet paper in. i have used them since the 70's. believe me nothing gets past it. it will soak up moisture fast. it is my last defense in the booth. i put a fresh roll in before every job. i will have one close to the compressor when i move it . if your getting oil vapor it will have a yellow tint to it.
Click to expand...

I have searched in the past with zero success in finding one. I want to put one after my Devilbiss filter sysytem before my dedicated paint hose.
 
Bob Hollinshead;19304 said:
I I've seen the results of product tampering in the past, silica sand in buffing compound, air tool oil in paint, booth filters sprayed down with WD40...
Click to expand...

You hang with a tough crowd!
 
autobody supply sells them. i just never used their high dollar filter. i changed them daily back when running production so toilet paper was better choice.
perky , glad you lines are ok. it's a real pia to flush them. strange problem you have there.
 
Of all the SPI clear I've sprayed....can't say I've had a fisheye problem other than surface contamination. The epoxy "problem" is common...the "swiss cheese". Lots of guys mistake it for fisheyes. SPI epoxy is thicker than most, and gives the misconception that you can pile it on with your 1.8 primer gun. You can, very carefull...and inducing a few hours really helps. I've sprayed the epoxy out of my 2.5 poly tip. Induced over night.

Fisheyes are the worst and hardest problem to solve. Because it happened with spi clear, and didn't happen with hok doesn't necessarily mean it was the spi. Even in $100k downdrafts, fisheyes can be a problem.
 
allright . this is what i'm gonna do. i ordered one of those motorguard m60 filters . won't be here till next week. i'll plumb that in and if that don't help i'm lost. there's nobody in my shop but me so if it screws up it's my fault. it's a good thing this is my car or i would be having fits.
 
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