English Wheel run out question

ct71rr said:
Nice work! What PrimeWeld unit are you using? I recently purchased the MTS200 multiprocess unit.
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Congratulations.......I have the MTS200 as seen in my pictures. Its been a very good machine. I wish they had gone High Frequency tig start instead of the lift start. It would have made the tig function more user friendly for sheet metal tig welding such as, fusion welding.
 
Another update. Cut all the metal for the legs/feet. Drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes for the lifting casters. Tac welded together one tonight, tomorrow I'll finish the other one.

Material cut and prepped with 30* bevel at all weld joints.
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Tac welded together
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Kind of you to say, Don. This has been a fun winter project.

I'm pretty green with regards to working with metal. The challenge I find when working with metal is the cuts and fitment have to be dead on. Then the 2nd challenge is clamping the pieces securely before welding to eliminate, or at least minimize, the metal from moving. I was lucky with the two pieces I fabricated. The degree angles are dead nuts after tac welding. Hopefully I can say the same after they are fully welded.

Here's the 2nd piece tac welded together.
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NIce mods, been following this one. I like the flying tigers teeth idea. I worked in the fab shop for a while before getting into maint. at the place I worked at and always wanted to put some on one of the brake presses . What's steel prices running at down your way? I got some prices the other day for tubing. 3x3x1/4 at $8.37 per lin ft, 2.5x2.5x1/4 at $6.75 and 2x2x1/4 at $4.85.

John
 
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And everyone thought I lost my mind painting a lawnmower...... until it tooled down the street.

See Mike,
Something so benign as a shop tool and access to paint is how IT Starts....
And IT Will.....
Next will be Flames/Skulls on the welding helmet,the creeper,oh,that tool chest would look really kewl if I...

Great work on the Roller, now get to work ! :cool:
 
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Thanks for the kudos ChadS, BigDave, LITJOHN and MikeK.

Continued working on the old English Wheel today. Made three changes to the design and started welding everything up / dressing the welds. Still have more welding to do. More pictures to come in a few days.

Yesterday I had to install three new outlets in the garage. One 50 amp for my welder, one 40 amp for an electric heater, and one 30 amp for my exhaust fan for the paint booth. I can tell you this, being able to weld using 220 power really is night and day over 110. My welder just wouldn't handle welding anything thicker than 1/8" on 110.

LITJOHN, I paid around $5.00 dollars a foot for the 2"x2"x1/4"wall square tubing. Here's a cost break down so far.

$250 - English Wheel
$200 - Metal for fabrication
$200 - four lower English Wheel Anvils
$40 - lifting casters
$18 - Upper 8" wheel rubber band.

Total cost minus paint = $708

MikeK
After the Barracuda is done I'll be painting two mowers, so I don't think you're crazy.

I think we are all crazy, lol.
 
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I'm late to the party, but here's my experience with runout on the e-wheel. I had a couple thousandths out on my upper and in looking closer at the bearings, saw that they were of offshore manufacture. So I marked the high spot, pulled the bearing out and rotated 180*, and reinstalled. This all but removed the issue. The wheel is only as good as the bearings it rides on.
 
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The wheel is only as good as the bearings it rides on.
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Then the Fact you're micro managing something from China......
But we all know it is what it is and choose to polish the turd occasionally and can end up with a viable tool.
Like hf's bead roller kit. Took some effort and materials but not bad. Plus the steering wheel off my old B200 van.
I've been told the reason you choose Timken bearings is that no matter "where" you get Them,they are identical.
 
Almost done, just have a few welds to clean up in corners. Then weather permitting, media blast it and get it in epoxy primer.

The three changes I made are as follows. These added pieces where done to balance out the looks, as well as additional strength. The English Wheel is listed at 165 pounds. With the additional metal and lower anvils, it's now around 400 pounds.

1. Added a 2x4x1/4" to the upper back bone.
2. Infilled the triangle.
3. Added a 2x2x1/4 at the bottom of the "C" throat.

2x4x1/4 to upper backbone
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Infill triangle. Shaved 41 thousands off of each side of the two 2x2x1/4 so I could use some 19 gauge I had on hand.
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Welds dressed
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Welded new legs/feet, welds dressed.
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All welded up
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dhutton01 said:
Wow. That is beautiful work. You could have just built one from scratch. :)

Don
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Thank you,

Do I think I could build one from scratch, yes. Do I have the means at this time to build one from scratch, no.
Imho, it would take a welding / fit-up table to properly secure the pieces for welding. Working off my concrete floor just isn't viable. Then there is the lower yoke assemble. I think I would need a lathe or Mill for that assembly.

For what I have invested in it, I don't think one could find something similar for under $3,500 - $4,500. It also provided me with lots of practice time mig welding. Such as pushing a weld, pulling a weld. Different weld patterns, ie: weave, the letter e, circles. I was also able to tig weld up some areas to get more tig time under my belt. It's been a very educational project for me.

MP&C and Chris Hamilton are going to sh%t a brick when I make my first Jaguar Type E front fender with it :)
 
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MJM said:
MP&C and Chris Hamilton are going to sh%t a brick when I make my first Jaguar Type E front fender with it :)
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:p It’s good that you asked about runout, and as a word of caution in case you make that Type E fender out of aluminum. Runout is especially problematic on aluminum as that high spot results in more pressure everytine the high spot hits the panel so as you wheel you wind up adding these isolated areas of stretch, resulting in a wave going across the panel.

Your mods to the wheel look good!
 
dhutton01 said:
This guy sells English wheel DIY parts. He’s The Guy for these parts.

Complete English wheel sets

English Wheel sets, Restorations, Metal shaping, English wheels, English wheel kits, English Wheel,
www.hoosierprofiles.com

Don
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That were I got my anvils for my Tommasini wheel. I think they supplied nearly all of them for Peter's wheels that are in the US. Very high quality.
 
MP&C said:
:p It’s good that you asked about runout, and as a word of caution in case you make that Type E fender out of aluminum. Runout is especially problematic on aluminum as that high spot results in more pressure everytine the high spot hits the panel so as you wheel you wind up adding these isolated areas of stretch, resulting in a wave going across the panel.

Your mods to the wheel look good!
Click to expand...

Glad you got a laugh out of me making a Jaguar front fender. I don't think that will happen in my life time but, if I ever get around to it, I'll remember your tip.

I'm going through all this work to make two quarter panel patches. My car is a 1969 model year. 1969 model years have rectangular marker lights, `1968 have round. Since I have an entire 68 front clip, I'm changing the quarter marker lights to 68. It's a compound curve so I don't believe I have the skills needed to bend it over my knee for the correct shape.

If I can make the two patch panels then it was worth the time, money and experience gained.
 
dhutton01 said:
This guy sells English wheel DIY parts. He’s The Guy for these parts.

Complete English wheel sets

English Wheel sets, Restorations, Metal shaping, English wheels, English wheel kits, English Wheel,
www.hoosierprofiles.com

Don
Click to expand...

Added to my favorites file, thanks. I need to get a better search engine. That did not come up when I searched for English Wheel accessories.
 
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