Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
I'm waiting on parts on the Suburban re-paint that I posted about last week, so thought I would push forward on the el Camino project.
I decided a while back to re-skin the doors. The OEM Sheetmetal was just too hammered, especially the drivers door. The place where the door handle sits has a complex indent and lip arrangement and I just don't have the hammer and dolly skills to get that back in shape - it really was whacked. Plus the door skin had rust through on the bottom, which made me want to pull it off and see what was going on with the door frame. Good thing I did, as there was significant rust and damage hidden behind the skin.
After fixing the metal on the door frame (lot's of cutting and butt welding) I was ready to shoot the whole thing in black SPI Epoxy. Big moment!
Here is something that I'm sure all restorers come up against; as much as we want every square inch of metal to be perfect, rust free and solid, there is just no way to get into every single nook and cranny. At some point we have to say "I've done my best and we'll see how it goes."
I know the rust is stopped. The whole car was acid dipped and then the specific areas (after grinding off the skins) that still had rust were treated with Oshpo and meticulously neutralized.
Here is the prepped door frame:
BTW, my new favorite tool is the Ingersoll Rand 2" pneumatic grinder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VYZ1HW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using Roloc scuff pads for cleanup and 36 grit wheels to grind welds and metal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TT1YNFP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here it is with 2 coats of SPI black epoxy:
The new door skin is from AMD and the test fit looks awesome! The EDP coating was good (did the thinner test) but I still wanted really good protection, so I shot 2 coats of SPI epoxy on the inside (after scuffing the EDP with 180 grit.)
Here is that:
Some previous owner must have had the door open and backed into something because the mounting area for the door latch was bent all out of shape and the opening for striker to go through had had some "vice grip surgery." It was a mess!
I did my best to get it all back into shape with a hammer and dolly, and Dremel tool - I'm new at this and it was pretty interesting.
I think it is "good enough" for an inside surface and I may be able to skim it with filler and make it better before final paint.
Next I will hang the door frame and fine tune the door skin before welding it onto the door frame. I bought a tool from Eastwood for crimping the lip on the panel and it looks like it will be a big help.
Never a dull moment in the car restoration hobby!
I decided a while back to re-skin the doors. The OEM Sheetmetal was just too hammered, especially the drivers door. The place where the door handle sits has a complex indent and lip arrangement and I just don't have the hammer and dolly skills to get that back in shape - it really was whacked. Plus the door skin had rust through on the bottom, which made me want to pull it off and see what was going on with the door frame. Good thing I did, as there was significant rust and damage hidden behind the skin.
After fixing the metal on the door frame (lot's of cutting and butt welding) I was ready to shoot the whole thing in black SPI Epoxy. Big moment!
Here is something that I'm sure all restorers come up against; as much as we want every square inch of metal to be perfect, rust free and solid, there is just no way to get into every single nook and cranny. At some point we have to say "I've done my best and we'll see how it goes."
I know the rust is stopped. The whole car was acid dipped and then the specific areas (after grinding off the skins) that still had rust were treated with Oshpo and meticulously neutralized.
Here is the prepped door frame:
BTW, my new favorite tool is the Ingersoll Rand 2" pneumatic grinder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VYZ1HW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using Roloc scuff pads for cleanup and 36 grit wheels to grind welds and metal: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08TT1YNFP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here it is with 2 coats of SPI black epoxy:
The new door skin is from AMD and the test fit looks awesome! The EDP coating was good (did the thinner test) but I still wanted really good protection, so I shot 2 coats of SPI epoxy on the inside (after scuffing the EDP with 180 grit.)
Here is that:
Some previous owner must have had the door open and backed into something because the mounting area for the door latch was bent all out of shape and the opening for striker to go through had had some "vice grip surgery." It was a mess!
I did my best to get it all back into shape with a hammer and dolly, and Dremel tool - I'm new at this and it was pretty interesting.
I think it is "good enough" for an inside surface and I may be able to skim it with filler and make it better before final paint.
Next I will hang the door frame and fine tune the door skin before welding it onto the door frame. I bought a tool from Eastwood for crimping the lip on the panel and it looks like it will be a big help.
Never a dull moment in the car restoration hobby!