E-coat prep for epoxy

L

Lou M.

I know that the preferred method is to strip to bare metal, however this is not a concourse restoration but a daily driver. The panels have been sitting in the back of the truck for the last 8 seasons up here in northern Ohio and they look like they did the day I received them so I'm more than comfortable with a scuff and epoxy.
Red/maroon scotchbrite pad; correct?
 
Check out this topic in the forum. http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum/spi-product-specific-discussions/sealers/3154-new-e-coated-parts especially what Barry has to say

Quote:
I agree, it use to be years ago Spies, SPI, Glasuit and Global all said clean and certain product would adhere just fine, like the spi sealer, epoxy and all three primers, however the e coating process was changed about 5 years ago and now 70% of the American plants have gone to the new process, thank you EPA.
Problem is you cannot tell or test to know witch one is witch and if you get the new process you will only get about 50% adhesion, so we only recommend this on inside of hood, fenders and the outside parts you sand, to be safe.

I am doing a daily driver as well but I am not going to risk having problems. I am going to sand my repair panels down. Just my 2 cent
 
8 years???? I would spend the time and strip the parts then epoxy. Time well spent to avoid any issues. At the very Ieast I would DA with 180 and scuff by hand with 180 any places the DA doesn't reach.
 
New parts from vehicle OEMs should be scuffed very well with a red pad, in fact they specify not breaking through the coating to maintain the OE corrosion warranty. Parts from aftermarket providers are a different story, generally most aftermarket factories these days are using a good e-coat process, but some don't. Generally, the best e-coat is on parts for late-model vehicles, the worst, on restoration parts.

Eight years outside means stripping, no question. Eight years inside means nothing, really.
 
8 seasons, or 2 years they have been sitting in the bed (covered) of the truck. They are 2 rockers, 2 cab corners, 2 rear wheel opening patches, 1 pass. door shell.
 
Looks like I will be sanding the outside and scuffing and shooting the inside of my panels. If I'm taking the time to eliminate existing rust it's a no-brainer to do what I can to prevent future rust. The rust on the frame under the bed and the bottom of the bed has been has already been ground off and treated with 3 coats of chassis saver.
I plan on keeping the truck for the long haul.
So, 180 on the outside and scuffing the inside it is.
​Thanks.
 
We put floors in a 67 Bronco about 3-4 years ago. When I was stripping e-coat so I could paint it I found rust under the e-coat. This Bronco has been in the garage for about 4 years. That told me that I could not trust e-coat to keep moisture off the metal. The garage is not open to the elements.
 
So, at this stage of this rolling restoration my purchase list includes the following:
SPI Epoxy Primer -------------------------#6620-1***** $ 91.34
SPI Epoxy Activator----------------------#6700-1***** $ 91.34
Waterborne W & G Remover---------- #700-1***** $ 29.33
Solvent based W & G Remover------ #710-1***** $ 29.33
A gallon each.
What kind of reducer should I get: fast, medium, or slow?
 
elwood;n82269 said:
We put floors in a 67 Bronco about 3-4 years ago. When I was stripping e-coat so I could paint it I found rust under the e-coat. This Bronco has been in the garage for about 4 years. That told me that I could not trust e-coat to keep moisture off the metal. The garage is not open to the elements.
Click to expand...

Thats one way to look at it. Its a slippery slope. Surface rust on the metal, then enclosed with the ecoat so no more moisture or environment get to the rust and its not like its going to rust thru until you break thru and allow that moisture to get to it. E coat is an electrolytic dip coating, parts are fully immersed in a tank of the black electro deposited coating.
 
I think the biggest con to not removing the e-coat is that it's quality (for both materials and application) is not consistent. So rather than guess or take a chance it gets taken off.
 
Lou M.;n82280 said:
So, at this stage of this rolling restoration my purchase list includes the following:
SPI Epoxy Primer -------------------------#6620-1***** $ 91.34
SPI Epoxy Activator----------------------#6700-1***** $ 91.34
Waterborne W & G Remover---------- #700-1***** $ 29.33
Solvent based W & G Remover------ #710-1***** $ 29.33
A gallon each.
What kind of reducer should I get: fast, medium, or slow?
Click to expand...

The speed of reducer depends on temperature when you are spraying.
 
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