Dying activator

AAE

AAE

Learner
I think I know the answer but...
Used Medium with Speed today. Temp was around 65 but I raised it to around 80 after spraying. I also baked with a short wave and got it to around 130 for about 8 min.

After cool down and about another hour, I had to do some sanding. First, it didn't buff well the more I buffed, even a black pad, it dulled. I put my hand on it and left a print that had to be buffed.

All this to ask, if you think my activator might be on the way out. It was opened in September but I use Bloxygen. I'll probably toss the can but just wondering what you think.

Thanks!
 
Possibly, the simple test will to be using a fresh hardener on a test piece with similar temps, and see how it buffs. If the results are the same, then it was the temps. If it cures faster then pitch that hardener.
 
I have literally never tried to buff something an hour after spraying, no matter how much heat had been applied. I'm not sure this is a good activator test. If you've gotten away with it before, it could be just a difference in humidity.

That said, the only SPI activator I have ever had go bad on me was 3101, Speed Fast. It was kinda obvious though, thickening and with hardened up chunks in it.
 
crashtech said:
I have literally never tried to buff something an hour after spraying, no matter how much heat had been applied. I'm not sure this is a good activator test. If you've gotten away with it before, it could be just a difference in humidity.

That said, the only SPI activator I have ever had go bad on me was 3101, Speed Fast. It was kinda obvious though, thickening and with hardened up chunks in it.
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Exactly the fast has a shorter open life due to the tin.
My question is what was temp of clear when it was sprayed?
Remember you can have the car 80 deg and the air 80 deg but clear and base temp 55 degrees everything goes out the window.
 
The little bit of clear left in the mixing cup wasn't solid. But, I can't remember if I had put thinner in and just forgot to clean it. I still tossed the can. I'd rather start over.
 
Barry said:
Exactly the fast has a shorter open life due to the tin.
My question is what was temp of clear when it was sprayed?
Remember you can have the car 80 deg and the air 80 deg but clear and base 55 degrees everything goes out the window.
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I heated to around 70 but there's a chance it cooled quickly. Shop is kept at a constant 65.
 
AAE said:
The little bit of clear left in the mixing cup wasn't solid. But, I can't remember if I had put thinner in and just forgot to clean it. I still tossed the can. I'd rather start over.
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Should be a solid 45 to 90 mins depending on the speed of the activator.
 
AAE said:
I heated to around 70 but there's a chance it cooled quickly. Shop is kept at a constant 65.
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If constant is 65 then the center of clear is 58 to 56 degrees.
Always 5 to 8 degrees cooler
 
Barry said:
If constant is 65 then the center of clear is 58 to 56 degrees.
Always 5 to 8 degrees cooler
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I heat it while in the cup, along with the gun. But, I understand what you mean. Just checked with the infrared and the product is sitting at 70.
 
AAE said:
I heat it while in the cup, along with the gun. But, I understand what you mean. Just checked with the infrared and the product is sitting at 70.
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No do a small mix gell test with both activators, maybe a half-inch thick.
Fast 55 to 65 mins solid.
Med 65 to 75 mins solid.
 
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