Dual Action-Random Orbit Variable Speed Sander- When not to?

Hedidit

New Member
All,

I appreciate the guidance and specific info I am able to receive from this group. Thanks.

I have read a few posts in different topics. There are some opinions that a DA is not the tool to use when sanding with paint. Without making this an open-ended and never ending thread, when do I definitely not want to use a DA? I have DA sanded the bare metal, hammered, epoxied, filled, sanded, and Turbo 2K primed. I have only used the DA on the bare metal and on some of the filler spots.

Thanks for your help!
Hedidit
Newbie
 
Did they mean fresh base? Don't use DA?
I would agree.

Most of us have at least 2 DAs, so we have a backup if one checks out.
 
When and when not to use a DA has a lot to do with your skill set and experience. There is no one answer that applies to everyone in every situation imo….

Personally I only use a DA on bare metal and when cutting clear and single stage. Some consider using a DA on clear and single stage to be blasphemy…. :p

Don
 
Any block work and filler work I do mostly by hand. After that most my prep work is by da. Is use my da as much as possible, if possible. Work smarter not harder.
 
If you are new to this then the DA is best used in the early stages, like removing paint and prepping bare metal for epoxy. After that, put it away and work by hand. Blocking is one of the keys to a nice job and it can only be done by hand. Your filler work should also be done by hand as it will be faster and easier to get it right versus using any machine if you are new to this. Only time you may want to consider using a Ro/DA is when color sanding but again if you are new to this, doing it by hand is safer and much faster than redoing something because you messed up using the DA. It's a tool that takes a lot of experience using to be able to effectively use it for anything other than roughing out type work.
 
Most of the time I will use a DA with 80 to knock off spreader marks and the "skin" on a fresh application of filler, but it's something that requires a bit of a light touch, it's very easy to sand too much off. This technique is only to make the subsequent hand blocking step faster and to save a bit of elbow grease.
 
Thank you all, this info fits with what I thought....and have done so far. The long block, shorter rounded block, very short V-block, and an 8-inch soft block seem to get used mostly. I have used the DA over small fills if there is mostly metal, and I use an interface pad. I will keep reading the Forum and stay ahead.
 
Back
Top