Does anyone know of a MIG welding wire that can be hammer welded?

getawaycars

getawaycars

Member
Does anyone know of a MIG welding wire that can be hammer welded?
One of my customers saw it on a forum but can't find the name, it's supposed to be a different alloy that won't crack when hammer welded.
 
You might be thinking of 20 gauge ?

I have not had any problems hammer welding mig welds with ER70S-6.
As long as it is a properly welded it should hammer just fine. Cold welds will crack.
 
easy grind is good ,quenching the weld also affects mallebility.
 
If you're welding with the mig it is pretty much impossible to set the gun down and grab a dolly and hammer quick enough to actually hammer weld, hammer welding needs to be done with a torch or a tig as both will create more heat. I have a hook soldered on my torch so I can hook the torch on something while keeping it lit and grab the hammer and dolly fast enough to work the metal. Another option is to have two people-one welding and the other working the hammer and dolly.
 
Bob Hollinshead;27803 said:
If you're welding with the mig it is pretty much impossible to set the gun down and grab a dolly and hammer quick enough to actually hammer weld, hammer welding needs to be done with a torch or a tig as both will create more heat. I have a hook soldered on my torch so I can hook the torch on something while keeping it lit and grab the hammer and dolly fast enough to work the metal. Another option is to have two people-one welding and the other working the hammer and dolly.
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Thank you!!!!!!! For years I've been hearing the same crap from Google reasearchers about "you need to hammer and dolly your welds", but in no instance does anyone ever back it up with how to do it. Thanks Bob for putting it in context of real life. Maybe some day you can share how to properly butt weld a quater panel skin when the backside is unaccessable (which they never are) :)
 
Well, there is some merit to hammering cold mig welds because it does stretch the weld zone back out and it's needed to correct warpage from shrinkage but the old school way of actually hammer welding is done while the weld is still red hot-it gets hammered flat and stretched back to correct the warpage as you go.
 
Arrowhead;27890 said:
For years I've been hearing the same crap from Google reasearchers about "you need to hammer and dolly your welds", but in no instance does anyone ever back it up with how to do it.
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I'm not a mig welder but I have welded a patch with one and hammered it out without cracking. I have heard from very good welders that the mig weld will crack, and then other very good welders say no it won't. All I know is that the one mig patch weld I made didn't crack.

http://fergusoncoachbuilding.blogspot.com/
 
Arrowhead;27890 said:
Thank you!!!!!!! For years I've been hearing the same crap from Google reasearchers about "you need to hammer and dolly your welds", but in no instance does anyone ever back it up with how to do it. Thanks Bob for putting it in context of real life. Maybe some day you can share how to properly butt weld a quater panel skin when the backside is unaccessable (which they never are) :)
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I do the partial quarter skins by fitting the replacement panel so it overlaps the original by 1/2" along the length of the panel. The vertical ends get trimmed and setup the same way depending on how much original metal needs to be saved. The panel gets fitted and held in place along the seam with screws or clecos spaced 6-8" apart, I drill a hole and attach a wire and run it from the front to the trunk opening so as I cut off the overlap with an airsaw along the new panel edge for a perfect butt joint I can pull on the wire and peel back the section that gets trimmed off, I cut 6", then pull the wire and tack weld every 2", remove a screw, cut, pull, weld, remove a screw, cut pull, weld.... untill I end up at the end of the seam. At this point the panel is tack welded every two inches along a perfectly aligned butt jointed seam from front to back. You'll find as you trim off the overlap the two panels naturally align. I take a grinder and knock the welds down some and find a helper to hold a piece of copper against the back side while I jump around and slowly tack weld and grind until all is welded. The copper soaks up heat and aids in preventing burn through and excess weld on the backside, warpage correction is minimal if you take your time, and cleaning up the backside along the seam isn't much work at all. It's a lot more work than full quarters but the quarters I've done this way turned out great and held up just fine.
 
That's exactly how I do it, but there is a dearth of "helpers" around these here parts. This was my solution:

I made up a dolly system with one piece attached to the end of a counterbalanced rod and the other piece attached to a U shaped holder. The long rod is marked in 1/2 " increments which lines up with a similarly marked piece of tape on the quarter. This allows me to know where the dolly is in respect to the area I wish to work, saving time by hunting around for the dolly with the hammer. As a bonus, after the first round of tacks, I switch the dolly out for a copper pad and go back and weld up the screw holes. Then it's tack, grind, bump, tack, grind, bump, ad infinitum. A vixen file and a shrinking disc brings the weld bead to where no filler is required. A round of lead to seal any pinholes and prime. P1010010.jpg

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Exceptional info guy's. I use both depending on "who" may be around. I just wish "somebody" would make cowl repop's or patch's for the job. I had to make my own when I was doing the Tank dually.Tough going,BUT, it got done and only a little hammer & dolly work was needed to get her back in shape.
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One more for the IDIOT'S. I know you can relate!!!
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5windowcoupe, nice idea for the dolly-much better than finding a contortionist to help!
 
Mike, I've repaired a few of those pickup cowls. They definitely didn't seal that seam up very good at the factory and the sealer they used wasn't very good.
 
Mike K;27934 said:
One more for the IDIOT'S. I know you can relate!!!
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I do not understand this statement, is it in jest or ?

There is no user on this website that is an idiot.
There are users with varying levels of skill and knowledge, and everyone is here to learn or help others learn.
 
Bob Hollinshead;27935 said:
5windowcoupe, nice idea for the dolly-much better than finding a contortionist to help!
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Thanks Bob. Contortionists are even harder to find than helpers. At least those not involving lucite shoes and dollar bills :eek-new:
 
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