Disambiguating the buffing ambiguities

Bob Hollinshead;34271 said:
If sanding and buffing is new to you start with one panel untill the proceedure is down, better to refine and perfect your technique before you make 10X the work on the rest of the car.[/QUOTE

What Bob said ^^^

Ask yourself: If I have to redo one panel, which one would be the easiest? Start on that one!
Click to expand...
 
I have my trunk lid finished up to 3000 with the trizact. Because there is hardly any orange peel, the 1000 grit to start with cuts it very flat very fast. I've found if I get it about 80% of the way with 1000 grit, it will be to 100% by the time I've finished with 2500.

And because my compound isn't here yet, I've started the roof. Needless to say, the lack of cutting necessary has made this a real joy :loyal:
 
although we had used 5000 trizact before, upon Jim's recommendation, we recently really "worked" the 5000...what a difference....I must say, that stuff keeps on keepin' on...the actual buffing time was greatly cut as you might expect, but more importantly to me was the clarity almost immediately....thanks Jim
 
I don't really have a basis for comparison so don't know how I'd know if I didn't like it. Your opinion is good enough for me old timer.
 
Heh, Heh Heh, I have just been lurking through this thread but just had to say thanks for your input "Old Timer":devilish:
 
Well, we don't need to let the wife know how much I've paid so far to make my car look really shiny, but she will like it for sure :mad-new:
 
I got my box of goodies earlier this week, but it's been so stinkin cold out it's been hard to get motivation to go out. I do have a few questions though before I start...

1. I have orange, black, and white 5.5" hexalogic pads and 32,34, 36, and 38 compounds. What pads would you recommend for each compound? It was a sampler pack that was a good deal, otherwise I would have just got the orange and black (I think are the two main ones Shine talks about)

2. How often do you reapply compound? After every 2x2' section?

3. How often do you wash the pad? I have the pad washer solution too.
 
i start with the orange pad with 32 . it only takes a few drops . after every third application i rinse out my pad . same with the 34 and 36. i switch to the black pad for 38 . with the small pads you will work smaller areas which to me is more controlling . remember to use blue tape on all edges and peaks until you get to the black pad. depending on what grit you used you may need to hit them with the orange pad .
it takes very little compound to work.

on cleaning the pad i use my spray want to rinse it off then spin dry a little.
 
Thanks.

My pads are actually 6.5", not 5.5" as I had stated. I got their flexible backing plate too. Pretty nice.
 
I purchase the Chemical Guys v series 32, 34, 36, and 38 products last year to help my 03 Silverado. I really liked it. The smell of these compounds/polishes is awesome. I was using the 5.5 inch hex logic pads, orange for 32 and 34 and white for 36 and 38. A different pad for each product. I do have one black pad. May give it a try this year. The results were amazing. I wasn't color sanding, just doing some paint correction from many years of abuse. Later this year, I want to purchase a pad washer.

Shine, what machine are you using for your buffing?
 
i use a flex rotary . the black pad is for the 38 . it is the polishing pad. you can use a sprayer to clean your pads. i have a 1/4 in hose with a weed spray nozzle on it.
 
the flex is smaller . it weighs only 4.7 lbs . i use the 6.5 pads and polish much like it paint. slow . i also like the little pads. but remember anything i recommend will be for custom or restorations. i'm dumb as a tree stump on collision . i dont do it.

but at my age i dont like the seating arrangements on a 9 lb buffer.
 
So far the V34 and V36 have worked great on the used cars I encounter daily. I use a dewalt with wool pad and usually knock of the scratch edge with 2000. It is some thick stuff. Could be a problem in the summer heat. May have to keep pads more moist.
 
Finally got around to hitting part of the roof with the 32 on the orange pad. Disappointed when I saw these big puppies still glaring through loud and clear. I went several passes over with the orange pad and 32 but I can see I'm going to have to go back to 1500 and work back up to work these out probably. These scratches actually look like a piece of something got stuck under the sandpaper because they're 4 or 5 big distinct scratches.

After the 32, should I see no scratches in the clear besides any swirl marks from the compound? I can still see some light scratches, but I can't capture those in a picture. I'm thinking I'm going to have to back up and go back over the entire roof with 2000 and work back up to 3000...not something I am looking forward to doing. It's just really difficult to tell if all the scratches are out until you begin the compound. My tendency is to probably undersand to avoid removing as much clear as possible. IMG_0322.jpg
 
What you are seeing there is particulate contamination getting under your sandpaper. Oftentimes when this happens you can hear a high-pitched squeal, but it's not very loud. Cleanliness is essential in the color sanding process.
 
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