Different ways to remove runs.


the razor blade works better on other brands of clear thab it does on SPI. Don't try to "cut" the run off, just scrape. And I like to put a small bend in the blade, that also helps keep the corners away from the surface.
richrd;35269 said:
the razor blade works better on other brands of clear thab it does on SPI. Don't try to "cut" the run off, just scrape. And I like to put a small bend in the blade, that also helps keep the corners away from the surface.
The clear needs to be hardened up fairly good to use a razor blade regardless of brand, some of the cheapy 4-1 clears and and speed clears get hard fast and you'll be able to scrape off a run quicker but those clears are also the ones that offer short term overall lifespan and scratch and chip easily down the road. JMO


Mopar Nut
I have better thing to get done and found that the 320 (I used 500) on your finger to get it almost flat then 1000 on a small hard block of something to remove the scratches then 1500 wet on a DA to polish was faster and easier than anything else I tried.


Top Banana
Sticky back self lube dry 1500 paper. No idea what this stuff is, comes in approx 3" x 4" sheets. Sold for removing nibs, runs.
My hard block's pvc pictured on hood, sanded/rounded edges, pink 1500 stuck to it.
Always just wrapped whatever paper around it but this sticky back stuff worked like a charm & dry was certainly the way to go for final leveling.
2 week old universal clear cut & buffed, easier for me to final level runs after buffing, easier to see.


I have some rolls of 1500 PSA wet or dry board paper in a continuous roll made by Klingspor. The abrasive isn't all that great but when you stick it to a flat block it does really well for tuning out imperfections.
I use several methods, depending on the size of the run, and where it is. For large runs, is use the razor blade held at 90 degrees to the surface, and scrape the top of the run off with the edge of the blade. I NEVER try to shave the run off. I have tried that in the past and have ended up gouging the paint. I also have a pair of nib files, which are nothing but small little squares of vixen files mounted to some wooden blocks. one is coarse and one is fine. They work fine on smaller runs, but the do shave the tops off of the runs, and can gouge the paint if used on bigger runs that are not rock hard yet. My final tool for run removal is an aluminum block that is 1/2" thick and is about 1.5" by 2". I just wrap a sheet of 600 wet or dry around the block and sand the tops of the run until it is flat. The hard aluminum keeps the sandpaper from conforming around the run and sanding the paint on either side of the run. It takes a steady hand, but with proper technique, the top of the run is the only thing you touch until it is flat.

Regards, John McGraw


New Member
Meguiars makes little stone blocks that work really good.
They're only about 2"x1" in size and can be easily
sanded back flat from usage.
You can "feel" the run with them and sand it without doing much
sanding to the surrounding area.
1000 grit is the coarsest grit they come in but it
works real good with soapy water.
The hardness of the stone gets it really flat.
It worked for me one day. Some days I simply use trim router, and even if it was made for wood specifically, I use it for different needs time to time. I found it on this resource ( https://www.woodroutersreviews.com/best-trim-router/ ) and it's called MAKITA XTR01Z BRUSHLESS CORDLESS ROUTER. I like it cause it is lightweight and very portable.
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It worked for me one day.
If you mean it only lasted one day, then it was probably clogged.
You can take some coarse sandpaper on a flat surface and rejuvenate those stones
by sanding them a little, I also like to round the corners of the stone that way.
The razor blade works best on cured clear. There is a danger of pulling a chunk of clear and leaving a pit which is worse than a run.
I have found the finger tip method mentioned by Barry to be the easiest to control sanding just the run. Once it gets down closer to the surface a hard block or stone will help you level the run without sanding the surrounding clear at the same time.

Had some practice with this on my R/T. Started out trying to just sand everything but realized quickly that I would sand through the surrounding clear if I kept going.

Started concentrating on sanding just the runs using a hard block and 400 grit. Getting closer.

Switched to 1000 grit on the hard block and continued to level the runs.

Moved to 1500 grit and then eventually got them all removed.
Runs Gone 2.JPG

Can't be in hurry with a mess like this one. Thankfully I have gotten better at spraying clear over the years.


In my short time dealing with runs the most important lesson learned is to not rush.

Dont rush trying to get them sanded out and dont be in a hurry when your sanding.

Sanding a run flat too soon is bad news and can leave you with a bigger mess after it finishes curing and ghosts on you the following days. That is a sinking feeling for sure.