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Devilbiss Pro Lite from China?

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
#21
Do what you want to. Not my business. Just don't support someone who is selling obvious fakes.
You know why a Sata or Iwata or Tekna costs what it does? The precision with which the componets are made and machined. You think that precision is duplicated when they copy it? I mean on the one in question they can't even get casting the body of the gun right. They are designed to look similar. Any similarity stops there. Period. End of story Precision close tolerance machining costs money.
As for getting results with anything I gotta disagree. You are only as good as the gun you are using. You can make up for it by color sanding and buffing but if it sprays like crap in my hands it will spray like crap in Shine's hands or whoever you consider to be the greatest painter out there. Tools and methods. It takes the proper tool with the correct method. Learning to spray can take some time. The best gun there is isn't going to make you a great painter until you learn how to spray. But the worst gun is still going to be crap in the hands of the greatest painter out there. It doesn't translate.
Trying to learn to spray with a crap gun will be an exercise in frustration because it will never spray correctly. You get what I'm saying?
Do what you want, it's your business. Just don't support people engaging in criminal activity such as counterfeiting goods. It's bad for everyone and simply the wrong thing to do. Like we said earlier you could got 3 HF guns for the counterfeits price. I guarantee you the counterfeit is no better.
 
#22
So you're really thinking that some of the parts in a fake gun are real? Like the the makers of the fake $100 gun are going to bulk buy Devilbiss aircaps that cost $175 ea to sprinkle some in their fakes just to build confidence in buyers?
 
#23
did not get around to this, and did not want to hijack the other thread.

Its most probably a reject gun, since the anodize is more gold than copper. Whether or not its real and I saved 300, or fake, the only thing I am sure of is it wont make me a better painter and I doubt a better sealed anodize job would either.
 

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#27
There is a world of difference in the way original guns and fake guns spray, I have a horrible freight gun for painting lawn mowers and such and I spray vehicles with Devilbiss, Sata 5000's and Iwata's. There is no comparison at all, Get a good gun and take care of it and you will have it for life verses buying one every month or so.
 
#28
How does it spray? Have you painted anything with it yet?
It sprayed fine. We have one PPG paint we are required to use for the pan and tilts we paint for NASA. Ever since those o-rings failed on the shuttle, they need to put a camera on the pad, it has to last 11 seconds during the launch. I am guessing they are gonna start flying rockets again?

either way, this is a pain in the ass paint. 83:17 ratio, if we dont let it burn in and use the absolute slowest reducer, the paint erupts with what I call fireworks as soon as the paint hits the part. We have always used our best guns to spray this junk. Either way, it laid down nice and atomized great.

I do anodizing so I know this orange stuff they put on their "real" guns is called Gold S dye. It has the worst lightfastness of any dye out there and real particular with ph and temperature. If they strip these things they would have to completely repolish the part before anodizing it again so would most likely be scrapped instead of going thru all that, even if it were for a 400.00 gun. Stripping anodize on this casting just makes it look like a bad bead blast job.

I wont say that every gun is like this one, but if it will spray my biggest headache, I am pretty sure it will spray anything. I have enough real devilbiss guns to know what their air caps rest of their parts look like.
 
#29
That's very interesting. So the paint has to last 11 seconds? Is that to prevent flames or smoke from obscuring the camera view? Is the PPG a heat resistant paint and if so which coating is it?
 
#30
Actually, the pan and tilt camera has to last 11 seconds. The paint burns to brown after the lift off but protects the aluminum enough so the electronics dont start to boil. I had pics of one on a computer that fried, when I spent the 400 to save files from the hard drive it did not copy. The line of paint is called Pitthane ultra. Its not the only one, but the closest source and even the PPG store is surprised its used for NASA. There is a nasa spec of NASA-STD-5008 that lists all the different approved vendors.

The first kind we did for them was the camera in the payload bay of the shuttles. If you remember the footage of the big arm extending to deploy payload, that was what they used to film it. I never knew how they both required the same spec, but thats NASA. Anyway, after the o ring incident, they have had to film every launch and this is how they choose to do it.

Anyway, depending on what kinds of parts are painted, some require you to buy a dry zinc powder to mix as a primer if you are going over Galvanized. Talk about brutal sludge to spray. Luckily we get new aluminum parts we can put mil spec chromate and epoxy on before the top coat. The ones we are doing now are like the ones we painted back in 2002 when the shuttles were in full go like the one that went in on the payload bay, so for all I know these are going to Mars.

Either way, the smartest man I ever worked for told me to never start learning, so I try not to. I know it rubs some here the wrong way when I would mention using some industrial coating on the chassis of my cars, but when you look at it being good enough for NASA, well, pretty sure it will protect my chassis from salt and road grime.

I better not say anymore, I would hate for them to find out I sprayed their parts with a fake gun.
 
#31
Wow, that is very cool! Fun to learn a little inside info on things like this, thanks much for sharing. I'm surprised these aren't powder coated. Damn it'd be fun to know something I painted was in space on the Shuttle! Or going to Mars!
 
#37
Wow, that is very cool! Fun to learn a little inside info on things like this, thanks much for sharing. I'm surprised these aren't powder coated. Damn it'd be fun to know something I painted was in space on the Shuttle! Or going to Mars!
Powder coat is hard, which also makes it very brittle, and that is the biggest misconception. Soft, shiny and flexible is what they look for long term. Most of the regular stuff is powder, but you are talking military grade tripods and super heavy duty surveillance camera equipment that goes up on buildings or along roads going to certain secret military installations, I think there is one called Area 50 something?

Remember when somoene got the bright idea to start using hardened tubing for top fuel dragster and funny car?

As far as chassis paint, I am pretty sure you can see the mindset, and it takes me a long time to recover from wounds after suggesting anything other than SPI products for the automotive side, no matter how pretty the "butterflies" end up.
 
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