CPVC piping for my home setup?

I'm using PEX.
I know it's not "officially" rated for compressed air systems, but if it does fail (very unlikely) it will just split and leak, unlike PVC or CPVC which can explode and send dangerous shrapnel flying, as @MP&C noted.
Looks like PEX-A is rated for 160 psi, which is probably sufficient. What size lines are you running? It looks like there are 5 methods for crimping PEX, which do you recommend?
 
Looks like PEX-A is rated for 160 psi, which is probably sufficient. What size lines are you running? It looks like there are 5 methods for crimping PEX, which do you recommend?
I'm running 3/4".
I like the metal crimp rings. Seemed like home depot and lowes carried the most fittings for these and I was leery of the shark bite style.
Need the crimp tool, but it wasn't much.

Pro plumbers use the nylon rings, but they need a ~ $300 tool.
 
Blue pipe in the pics is the PEX.

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I'm running 3/4".
I like the metal crimp rings. Seemed like home depot and lowes carried the most fittings for these and I was leery of the shark bite style.
Need the crimp tool, but it wasn't much.

Pro plumbers use the nylon rings, but they need a ~ $300 tool.
How does my shopping list look?

100' 3/4" PEX-A, $73

Cutting and crimping tools, $33

3/4" crimps, $15

30 piece brass fittings, variety, $38

2 shut off valves, $16
 
OSHA has banned the use of PVC and CPVC piping in compressed air systems. They don't have jurisdiction over your home system, but perhaps another method would be prudent.
Very wise words.

Many, many deaths and property losses from this misguided application and continue to this day. This OSHA prohibition dates to 1988 and updated in 1991 for any thermoplastic being used in compressed air piping. One ABS plastic was recognized then for some rather low psi service. The problem is sudden fracture from pressure cycling--amorphous thermoplastics suck big time for internal air pressure use and fatigue. Wall thickness is not much of a factor for that kind of a failure.

Other less known things.............On residential zoned private property, no state pressure vessel jurisdictions perform permitting inspections for any sized air compressor tank be it an 80 gallon 175psi air compressor, or a 12 gallon 125 psi one, or its distribution piping. All such things are exempted by all the state statutes that I know of for public safety. You would just kill yourself and likely destroy only your own property in the event of sudden energy releases/ruptures/ fires collapses and what follows. So, no public safety concern for the area outside your property boundaries for the most part.

The sad thing is because of this--you have no casualty or liability insurance in the event of a failure or energy release from your air receiver tank or the piping you run---none. And you could not get easily it if you wanted to. Your homeowner's policy does not cover "events" like these. You are on your own and responsible for whatever damages to others occur. Call your insurance agent--tell him or her that you used plastic pipe of any kind for compressed air piping in a dwelling being insured by them, it was not inspected on installation nor was the air receiver tank and pressure relief valve inspected at your home after being set, and that nothing was installed to any recognized mechanical code by you....................................see what he or she says after that.

No commercial or industrial users of compressed air piping can get casualty/liability policies either in any states I have ever worked in even if it is engineered for such. Insurance companies like Hartford, Zurich, Chubb, Travelers won't write them.......the reason is......."not inspected on installation by a National Board of Boiler and Pressure Vessel Inspector's commissioned Authorized Inspector (AI), provided with certification stamping by the installer, nor furnished with recognized legal paperwork describing and certifying for service use at temperature and pressure by an accredited entity and the AI."
 
Regarding the copper piping, I was reading about how the typical method/material used to join pipes isn't the "correct" way to do it, and silver (?) should be used, which drastically increases the cost. How much truth is there to that?
If you are soldering potable water lines you can't use solder with lead in it. For air lines there's no such restriction. The usual solder for potable water is 95/5 Tin Antimony but for your air lines you can use 50/50 Tin Lead. A one pound spool of 50/50 is about $25 while the 95/5 is about $36. You can also opt for a silver alloy solder and it's over $70 a pound.
 
I used black iron pipe on mine. I installed a refrigerant dryer in line between the compressor head and the tank, to date have not seen the first drop of water in the air lines.
 
I don't know about you, but my "temporary" solutions have a way of becoming permanent... Also there's no way I'd take a chance on something hurting myself, family, friends, or truck LOL. I was looking at one of these kits, but they are a bit pricey. Says it's not PEX and is rated for air not water. https://www.rapidairproducts.com/
This company's product offerings in their "Maxline" is actually an aluminum tube with an inner and outer layer of polyethylene. It is made to a listed specification in a commercial piping code (ASME B31.9-2020) without prohibition for compressed air use to 150 psi and to a material ASTM spec. F1283 that allows it to be used for pressurized gas service in as well as pressurized water service for the product scope use. The material specification clearly states the aluminum tube is the part withstanding the pressure rating at temperature--not the plastic. Since it is acknowledged by both the material specification and the building code--OSHA accepts that as compliant. It appears to be a very well made and designed product and has a "letter of compliance" with it for legal purposes with its uses and limitations. I would use it myself.

Yes, it most certainly is not PEX with just a single layer of plastic wall between you and ruptured ear drums at the least if the airline failed. Death if the released air hits your body and you get an internal bleeding. PEX tubing (blue, red, white) on the other hand is made to ASTM F875 and is limited by that material specification for pressure for water only at three differing temperature--compressed air is outside the material design and use scope. Therefore--either using it or recommending it is not consistent with any design application in a building code for compressed air service. It has very poor stress safety factors even for water use as well in the building code compared to any metallic.
 
I always thought cast iron was the best. Cools the air and if angled right, water condensation collects at the lowest point with a trap. I only know this from being a mechanic when I was younger. Things may have changed in the last 35 years
 
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