Collision Repair (Mustang Fender Blocking?)

I had a guy measuring stripes down low on the car - was off by less than a 1/16 of an inch . He pointed it out and asked if I could redo it ( 3 stage pearl ) ! I said NO !!! Told him the same thing - can’t see both sides at the same time
I think I have met that guy.
There is not a strong enough word to describe how much I really hate those types of people.
Less than a 1/16 and he had the gall to ask you to re-do it? I think I would have told him yeah I'll re-do it as long as I can punch you in the balls...
And he is probably the guy that wants it done quick, doesn't have to be perfect, just look good, and give me a good deal. :mad:
 
I think I have met that guy.
Probably my son inlaw... He's got a 2014 F250 that he bought new with hail damage the size of my fist on one side, hood and top. He got nailed a month ago on the left front going through an intersection, he had the green light.
He wanted to take to the dealer to get repaired and use all OEM parts. It's a work truck (Tile setter) with 86,000 miles. I told him it's not worth it and if he wanted it to match the rest of the truck after it's done then I'll take a 5lb hammer to the good side of it!! :)

John
 
There is not a strong enough word to describe how much I really hate those types of people.
Those are the hardest people to work for. So my daughter is helping me with the fender, and we do our first initial blocking, and I'm feeling it with my hand. She said I think it looks good and ready for paint. Lol. I told her, no it's still got a slight high spot. She said well it's not like anyone is going to walk up and just start feeling her fender, that would just be weird. LOL. I told her, that the highs and lows would translate through the paint and you would see them through the reflection. She said oh! Lol
 
Those are the hardest people to work for. So my daughter is helping me with the fender, and we do our first initial blocking, and I'm feeling it with my hand. She said I think it looks good and ready for paint. Lol. I told her, no it's still got a slight high spot. She said well it's not like anyone is going to walk up and just start feeling her fender, that would just be weird. LOL. I told her, that the highs and lows would translate through the paint and you would see them through the reflection. She said oh! Lol
If anyone just started rubbing my daughters fenders, I'd be ticked!
 
This is the car - it’s the stripe ( dark color) at the bottom of the car by the Lakewood pipe exit that I fabricated for FREE because it was better than the stupid half pipe he welded on ! It’s that sliver of color right by the chrome( front of the door)- and he complained cause it was a 1/16th of a difference from the other side
 

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So I'm blocking this fender out and its turning out decent. I put down 2 coats of epoxy, the next day, I found my lows, tapped down one high, and put down filler. I roughed it in with 80. Next I put down 2 more coats of epoxy, and I let that sit a few days and blocked it with 180. I did add some glaze in 1 low and some pin holes. This is where I start to get lost as to my next step. It does have a few bare metal spots, but it feels really good with my hand running over it, even using a paper towel between my hand and the metal, I cant say that the bare metal spots are all that high. If I feel anything, its just a slight change of texture.

So I'm thinking my options are, 2 more coats of epoxy, block with 320, or 1 coat of epoxy and then the next day, 2 coats of Turbo? I'm leaning towards the epoxy. I'm thinking if I was going to use the Turbo, I should have done it after the rough in. I tend to stick with the epoxy though in case I need to add filler or glaze. I probably put too much thought into this and complicated it. Lol. If I did use the Turbo, I know I would have enough on the panel to get it where it needs to be without any more primer with the exception of sealer. If I do use the epoxy, worse case, it would be 2 more prime sessions to get it right. What do you guys think?

The profile actually worked out decent. The fender I'm working on is on a jack stand lifting it in the air, that's why the pic looks wonky. lol
 

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Personal opinion here, you don't have enough metal exposed to be worried about shooting turbo. If it feels good, wet it down with some wax and grease remover and take a look at it. If you feel you need to do some more filler work, do it and then shoot 2-3 coats of turbo and move on to prepping for paint.

If you are worried about the metal, then dust some epoxy on those spots and just put the turbo on. The turbo will build much better IMO.
 
Personal opinion here, you don't have enough metal exposed to be worried about shooting turbo. If it feels good, wet it down with some wax and grease remover and take a look at it. If you feel you need to do some more filler work, do it and then shoot 2-3 coats of turbo and move on to prepping for paint.

If you are worried about the metal, then dust some epoxy on those spots and just put the turbo on. The turbo will build much better IMO.
Thank you. Will do
 
I finally got the fender painted. We are moving at the speed of smell on this project, lol, but making progress. This was a first type of this repair for me. One thing that I totally screwed up on, was when I put the sealer down, I blew grey epoxy overspray all over my blend area, even using my lph80 with a small fan. I ended up waiting a little longer, till I could sand the overspray off with 600 back down to base. I did a wet bed, and then base, I could still see some 600 grit scratches where I sanded the grey epoxy sealer, but they went away once cleared. I think the blend area turned out nice with the base. Also the clear blend worked great at the top of the stripe, thus saving the stripe. The fender is not perfect, but looks better than the previous paint job on the rest of the car. It really feels great to finally be making progress and feeling like I'm starting to learn what I'm doing when painting. One thing about it, this is a ton of work, and its not easy! I appreciate all the help.
 

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