Code 16

There are at least 3 different GM code 16 silvers over the years, all different, but all have 2 sizes of metallic in them. Turning the fan wide open and increasing the pressure helps lessen the chance of striping, but also lightens the color. They're tricky ones.
 
looks perfect with brite lights but a little splotch on the trunk with only booth lights.
i remember in the old days code 16 was like sunglo orange. nobody wanted to touch them.
 
started clearing and got dizzy . thinking it's this new mask .
 

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The nice thing about modern paint is that we have blenders to help with difficult colors. SPI Intercoat can be used as a blender as well. If someone is having issues mixing RTS base with RTS SPI Intercoat 1:1 on the last coat or even last two coats will even out the most difficult metallics.
 
hapcj7 said:
Ive been hearing about bumpers not matching for years, even if sprayed at the same time with same gun..Some folks say bc the bumpers are plastic?
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I saw a brand new Nissan where the bumper had a green hue and the fender was greyer.
 
RosharonRooster said:
Chris can you clarify that mixture.

Are you saying
4 oz silver and 4 oz reducer
And 4oz intercoat and 4oz reducer
Total 16oz
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Mix your RTS (ready to spray) base however that may be reduced with RTS intercoat reduced per the Tech manual at a ratio of 1 (RTS base): 1 (RTS Intercoat). You can mix the two in whatever ratio you need. whether it's 1:1, or 2:1, or 1:2 etc. More base=more coverage more Inter= more translucent/opaque, which will help with striping, mottling, splotchy etc. It will even the metallic out. You only would do this on the last coat if you are having issues with how the metallic is laying out. If it's really giving you trouble you can do two coats.
 
On metallic blends I generally spray the first coat 100% base (reduced of course), on 2nd coat i mix it 75% base 25% blender, and 3rd coat I do 50% base 50% blender. That may be overkill but thats how I was taught to do it and it always works great.
 
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