Clear question for Bondoking or anyone else

[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;11609]When applying clear this way aren't you violating the "spray as you want it to look" standard?
Just curious because of late I have been trying to put heavier wet coats of clear in an effort to comply with the above statement.
In fact I got a few dots of of pop on the last hood I did but they were so few and small I didn't notice them until the final cut and buff.[/QUOTE]

No, not at all. There is nothing wrong with a heavy coat. Its piling on heavy coats that becomes a problem. Thats how you trap solvents and create pop.
 
my problem with little groups of bubbles is probably shooting too close too heavy...
 
It does seem that from the many posts that the concensus is that Production is slightly more prone to pop than the Universal in extreme conditions(despite it actually having a longer flash time).

Going one step more I wonder if the 3.5 Euro would be more like the Universal as far as resistance to pop since I assume the 2.1 Euro would be more akin to the Production 2.1 with high Oxol(sp?) contents if that has anything to do with it.

I believe Bondoking actually uses the 2.1 Euro though and never saw him mention any pop with it so maybe not.
 
For what it's worth, I used Universal on panels today that were 112deg. With no problems.
 
AAE;11621 said:
For what it's worth, I used Universal on panels today that were 112deg. With no problems.

i have not used the UV with the very slow in the hot weather.i got on the kick of the Production 2.1 and really liked it.

i only use the UV on well my own shit anymore,lol!!!!
 
I have never used the production clear. Got some activator for it by mistake one time and found it to be awesome basecoat activator. It seems to be.much more active than the other activators. Really gets crusty and hardens on its own much easier than the other activators.
 
Im sorry I missed this thread.. Ive taken a new position at my employer and changed shifts.. That along with the need to work in the garage has cut into my surf time..
Now on to the products at hand..

Universal Clear ( 4000).. I have used more of this clear than any clear in the last 6-7 years now.. By far the easiest clear to use that is in the SPI line up.. Pretty much bullet proof in my opinion.. Anyone can abuse a clear and create issues, however I have abused the crap out of the Universal and never had it fail once,.. Never.. That is a bold statement.. I know JimC has done the same..

Euro Clear ( 5100 ).. Same core resins as the Universal, but I personally reduce the 2.1 VOC (5100) version of this clear with 1 part reducer.. Without it, the clear does not spray as I like it.. I prefer this clear for bikes and dark colors.. You cant beat how hard it gets and how fast it gets away from scratching when you wipe it off once it has been cut and buffed..

You also have to remember that your environment also plays a roll in what clears you can and cant use.. Home hobbyist tend to fare better with Universal.. It is more forgiving.. It does not require reduction of any sort, although you can taylor the clear with a quality reducer if you so choose.. and you can buff it whenever you get around to doing it.. That could be a year from now and the universal would still buff like butter..

The Euro while also fine for a home hobbyist will have more limitations on buffing window,coats you can spray per session, and I would think you should build less film with it to keep good chip resistance, where the universal can have allot of excessive film build and maintain flexibility..

The reason i began reducing the 5100 Euro was because if I did not spray it hard enough it would get the tiny air bubbles in it.. First time I shot it, this was the case.. I hammered on a second coat and it all layed out slick and smooth.. So after a phone call to Barry, I started playing with reducer until I came up with the easy 4:1:1.. You can use a half instead of a full 1 part reducer and it still seems to lay out great, but for ease of mixing etc.. I just use the full 1 part reducer..

I think mixed like that, it will run easier than the universal that has not been reduced, but it lays out sooo damn smooth, I just cant help but push it to the max.. If it aint got a run or sag, you did not spray it wet enough in my opinion :eek:

Both are great clears..
I intend on keeping both of them in stock.. I will never quit using the Universal..

Funny this thread has come along. A week ago, I found an opened quart of universal that had been poured off from a gallon that I did not know I had.. ( happy birthday to me :cool: ).. I still had some opened activator also..
So I mixed up some and shot a small part with it.. Ahhh just like old times :p Laid out slick.. Had a small sag.. and I remembered just how much I still love that clear:D
 
Thanks for the update Bondoking. Did you ever try the 3.5 Euro? Several have posted they really like that stuff as well. I assume you got into the 2.1 maybe just giving the low voc stuff a try to see how it did and hit upon the reduction you liked and stayed with it. With so many clears to experiment with from Spi it makes for interesting comparisons between them.
 
I never tried the 3.5... I gave the 2.1 a whirl when it came out and really liked it.. I figured its all going to go low voc in a short time so I have just stuck with it.. It lays out beautifully and has plenty of build.. I figured I may try the 3.5 voc one day.. But then again, buy the time I get around to that, the low voc laws may be in place, at which point Im still good to go lol..

For now, my clear line up is good to go.. 2 clears can do anything I want.. Really 1 clear can do any job just fine ( Universal ), I just like the harder clear ( Euro ) for the darker colors and bike parts..

Happy Spraying
 
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