Clear over Single Stage Black Paint

L

Ltank

Promoted Users
I plan to buy the black epoxy primer and single stage black paint. Then paint Real Fire Flames with HOK KANDY paints. Then I will have to clear coat it protect the artwork. The 2020 seems to be my best option? I've been told never mix different bases and clear coats from different manufacturers. Will there be an issue with HOK KANDY?
 
There shouldn't be but JimC would be best to answer that question. He has been doing custom paint for a very long time . If you will do a search on here that question might have already been answered.
 
As long as flash and cure times are observed there will be no issue. But I have to ask why single stage if you plan to then flame it and clear it? You will have a lot of excessive film build (mils) doing it that way plus more labor.
Typical way is to use black basecoat, do your artwork over that then clear. Easier, less labor less film build.
 
totally agree. just use black basecoat. your going to need to go back with black base in an airbrush anyway after the realfire to tighten and darken things up.
 
Ok. Thanks. If the Black is 2k , mix a a few ounces for the airbrush with hardner or will the Clearcoat's hardner cure the Black from the airbrush?
 
Your not going to airbrush and intermix a bunch of layers of artwork with both 2k and base. Thats just ridiculous and asking for trouble. That black is so thin out of an airbrush it will start wrinkling if you apply basecoat over it too wet. Artwork is not meant to be done in 2k. It needs to be basecoat
 
Ok. If the SPI Black is a 2k Base. I was gonna clear coat then then apply the art work then not touch up any black then clear coat with 2020. Will this be OK?
 
to be clear, there is nothing wrong with doing artwork over a 2k product be it clear or single stage. you just need to be careful that you prep it properly. when airbrushing you are spraying very dry so it opens you up to adhesion issues, etc. if you go over basecoat then you avoid this.

spi black comes in both basecoat and 2k single stage. if your going to use single stage then just spray, sand and airbrush on it then clear coat. if your using black basecoat then spray base, do artwork and then clear it.

all artwork should always be done in basecoat. never a 2k single stage
 
There might be some confusion here on the part of the OP about what 2K and base coat actually are, they are two different products with different uses. Typically when artwork is involved, you do NOT use the 2K black product that you mention in your other thread, but instead a base coat like SPI 2010-4. It will lay down similar to an old style lacquer, and when it is dry, you do your flames, and when those are dry, you use an SPI 2K clear coat over the top of everything. No 2K urethane until the last step.
 
Wow! To me a Newbie it's lot to take in and understand! I was watching Utube Tazzattitude. He says to clear coat the base coat as a buffer to put your artwork on. I'm in information Overload! Some say this or that and being a newbie, I don't know what to think about it. Thanks
 
So, SPI has two blacks? One that needs hardner and not the other? If it's one Same black paint then using the hardner is optional? One BC other BC/CC?
 
Single stage paint which needs hardener and doesnt need to be clearcoat…this is basically clearcoat with pigment in it. Its a one shot deal. Base coat does not need activator. It is air dry but must be clearcoated. Spi like most paint companies have both systems. Spi has 2 blacks. One is single stage the other is basecoat.
 
Jim C, Crashtech and others are on here are true professional painters. Follow their advice and you will have no issues as long as you apply the products correctly.

The steps outlined are simple:
1. After your panels are properly prepped, shoot SPI black base coat. (It mixes 1:1 with SPI Reducer and does not require hardener or activator)
2. Allow ample time for the black base coat to cure before applying tape or stencils.
3. Apply your colored paints. (These should also be base coat paints that mix with Reducer and do not require activator or hardener)
4. If multiple applications of colored paints are required make sure the previously applied color has plenty of time to cure.
5. Once your colors are all applied and you are happy with them, they must be allowed to cure the required amount of time, before you apply your clear coat. (Clear coat will require an activator and some reducer.) Personally, I would recommend a Slow Activator and Slow Reducer to give your clear coat a bit more time to flow out and lay down. Less chance of orange peel that way.

Again, the key to success will be the proper application of the products. This will require an air compressor with enough CFM output to handle your spray gun's requirements, a good air filtration system, proper spray gun adjustment, consistent distance to panel, speed and overlap. Add to that a decent airflow through the both to keep any overspray from settling on the panel.

Pros, please correct my outline if needed.
 
Ok Great Help! My friend is painter in Auto repair shops and has all the equipment I can Rent his Equipment and help. He has never painted a custom before only factory type paint jobs. He knows Primers, Bases and Clears. I'm trying to learn so we can combine knowledge to do the custom paint job. I'm Taking screen shots and putting the info in a notebook.
Looking forward to Spring time for weather weather. Thanks Ya'll
 
Ok, I think I got it now. Get the SPI Black that doesn't have a Hardener, spray HOK SG-100 INTERCOAT as a protective layer for the base coat, mix HOK SG-100 with reducer and Kandy, Apply artwork then 2k clear coat. I downloaded all the pdf I can find on all the paints for study of flash times etc. Thanks
 
"Base coat" black is the correct terminology. Not trying to be pedantic, it's just helpful to be precise when discussing and ordering products.
FYI, SPI makes an intercoat clear that I am sure is just as good and probably better price than HOK.
Intercoat clear is just base coat with no pigment.
 
Precisely what Dean said Tank, order black base and intercoat clear from spi. But read Deans post a few times and get your thoughts right before you order.
 
I’m not the expert artist that Jim C is but I have done some airbrushing. You say you’re a newbie and that’s fine - gotta learn sometime. How are your airbrushing skills ? Gonna nail it the first time ? I like to put my clear coat down first, and do my airbrushing then clear over that. Extra work I know and extra cost . The reason for me doing it over clear coat is if I screw up then I can “erase “ it by lightly sanding it off and it won’t disturb the original base coat/color
 
Dave C 5 said:
I’m not the expert artist that Jim C is but I have done some airbrushing. You say you’re a newbie and that’s fine - gotta learn sometime. How are your airbrushing skills ? Gonna nail it the first time ? I like to put my clear coat down first, and do my airbrushing then clear over that. Extra work I know and extra cost . The reason for me doing it over clear coat is if I screw up then I can “erase “ it by lightly sanding it off and it won’t disturb the original base coat/color
Click to expand...

That sounds pretty smart to me. Good tech tip for the novice and professional.
 
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