cleaning before spraying
- Thread starter shine
- Start date
C
chevy_power427
It is preferable to clean before priming, grease from the hands or any contaminants could be left behind. I have worked with people that just blew the car with compressed air then sprayed their primer right away. They did get away with it, but I believe the cleaner you are with the job, the better.
I get this question a lot on the tech line and I give a wishey washy answer with back up examples.
Most important thing to me is bare metal cleaning, no short cuts here period as it the most important step and I don't care how it is stripped, metal is porous and holds dirt/contaminants.
Now you blocked the primer and the call is do i clean, in a perfect world yes BUT 50% or so of the shops i talk to don't, they blow off wiping at same time with a prep-wipe.
Personally I clean when blocking a large area but sometimes don't on just a door a door or fender BUT no one else is in my playhouse to contaminate.
Most important thing to me is bare metal cleaning, no short cuts here period as it the most important step and I don't care how it is stripped, metal is porous and holds dirt/contaminants.
Now you blocked the primer and the call is do i clean, in a perfect world yes BUT 50% or so of the shops i talk to don't, they blow off wiping at same time with a prep-wipe.
Personally I clean when blocking a large area but sometimes don't on just a door a door or fender BUT no one else is in my playhouse to contaminate.
Arrowhead
Oldtimer
I'll never forget the Kentucky Fried Chicken contamination story Barry. I still retell that one to this day. (Had a serious fish eye problem about 6 years ago with primer and had Barry on the phone a couple times helping me diagnose it)
No one in the shop but me so bare metal gets he full clean treatment but between primer coats it's a blown down and a double wipe down with clean disposable paper towels. (but I also wear rubber gloves when handling panels)
No one in the shop but me so bare metal gets he full clean treatment but between primer coats it's a blown down and a double wipe down with clean disposable paper towels. (but I also wear rubber gloves when handling panels)
C
curt b
I wipe everything with waterborne before any priming or painting. Haven't had a fish eye or any contamination problems since I found spi waterborne. But I tend to overdo things also.
When I worked at a paint/body shop on collision repair, we never used wax/grease remover until the car was in the paint booth and ready to be sprayed. I don't recall having many problems with contamination or fisheyes, just occasionally due to things we may have overlooked.
Now that I am on my own , I try to minimize or prevent any problems as much as I know how and cleaning between steps is one of those procedures.Bare metal, bodywork and anything that has been sanded gets cleaned. The only time I don't clean with w/g remover is between applications of body filler.
Yeah it takes a LOT of time and product but I like the peace of mind it provides.
Now that I am on my own , I try to minimize or prevent any problems as much as I know how and cleaning between steps is one of those procedures.Bare metal, bodywork and anything that has been sanded gets cleaned. The only time I don't clean with w/g remover is between applications of body filler.
Yeah it takes a LOT of time and product but I like the peace of mind it provides.
anotheridiot
Member
Thats pretty odd, since alot of the problems on repairs is smearing around the grease and wax from the car during the sanding. We use a final klean product from DuPont after tacking after each step as long as we use the real Wypall blue rags that have no fuzz. Most of the other brands carry fuzz along.
I will clean before I start any bodywork and of course any paint, between coats of putty a good blowgun will do the trick the same goes for the first round of primer. After I block the primer another good blowgun and if too much static happens then I will wipe with a tac-rag and go for another round of primer, I wetsand block so greasy paw prints are not a problem but if somehow one does appear then wax and grease will be used before a reprime.
C
curt b
Might just be me but the waterborne works. I uses it to clean and to look the panel over for dents and flaws. It might be a waste but I get consistent result with it. I'm helping a friend redo his car and he is the local Martin senour man and guess what cleaner were using? He likes the spi waterborne better than what he sells and trust me we tried it all from the lowest to the highest. He mixes all my colors and I get regular supplies from him but can't argue when something works. And reducer too spi is better even he can see it.