Chemical vs Mechanical Window

O

Outlaw

If you have to have a recoat window, is it better to leave a project in SPI 2k primer for the winter or SPI Epoxy?Its getting cold in Montana.
 
I cant find an option to edit my previous post. What Im asking is what is the best product to leave project in thru the winter, 2k primer or epoxy?
 
Just to confirm something else on the subject, if you have epoxy several months old, is sanding only sufficient before proceding with bodywork ( fillers, other primers ) or is it always best to sand & reshoot epoxy for best adhesion?
 
You have to reshoot fresh epoxy over fully cured epoxy before proceeding with fillers or other coatings to get best results.
 
If filler work is done and any sandthrus to bare metal are spotted with epoxy, is it best practice to shoot a full coat of epoxy over the filler before 2k or high build primer?
 
I always put a coat over filler one reason is correct me anyone if I'm wrong the epoxy will seal the porous filler and not allow solvents out of 2k to soak in possibly causing an issue down the road and adhesion is always better imo
 
Thanks J, I have always done it but never really knew why. What you are saying really makes sense.
 
To add to this thread, when scuffing and respraying epoxy (outside of the 7 day window) is it only mechanical adhesion or does the fresh epoxy "melt" into the old epoxy? Is it only mechanical or do you get some chemical?
 
From what I was told here, once you miss the mechanical window, its gone. The question I asked was multiple coats of clear all within the window and how that compared to missing the window and doing mechanical. I was told if you sanded down to the base with chemical bond, it would all be one solid coat. If you sand down to the base with a mechanical window, you will get to a new layer where the mechanical window is reached. Hopefully Barry will confirm my understanding.
 
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