'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I believe the Megs 105 had fillers in it as well, which is why I switched to the M-100.
In the past when I have had to buff rock hard clear coat. I found the sanding steps to be critical. Got to have everything sanded to 2000 or above. Then using a twisted wool pad with a quality cutting compound start slow just to keep the splatter down and then crank that baby up to 2000 or more RPMs and move slowly across the surface and working a small area at a time. This might blister a softer clear but the hard stuff needs the increased heat IMHO.
If you are going to reclear the car then I would clean it well and then wet sand with 600 grit on a soft block to dull the surface. Some guys will use a Scotchbrite pad to dull which is fine, I just prefer to wetsand it. If you have orange peel you will want to cut it flat prior to shooting your new clear.
In the past when I have had to buff rock hard clear coat. I found the sanding steps to be critical. Got to have everything sanded to 2000 or above. Then using a twisted wool pad with a quality cutting compound start slow just to keep the splatter down and then crank that baby up to 2000 or more RPMs and move slowly across the surface and working a small area at a time. This might blister a softer clear but the hard stuff needs the increased heat IMHO.
If you are going to reclear the car then I would clean it well and then wet sand with 600 grit on a soft block to dull the surface. Some guys will use a Scotchbrite pad to dull which is fine, I just prefer to wetsand it. If you have orange peel you will want to cut it flat prior to shooting your new clear.