Can SPI Epoxy primer really do it all?

E

earlysecond

Since trying my first 2 gallon kit of SPI epoxy primer I became a huge fan. Then I used it when I was refinishing motorcycle bodywork and found it indispensable.

Now my question. I am on the second re-do of my '70 Camaro. Been spending a good amount of time dedicated to finishing up the bodywork on the shell after hanging new sheet metal. My first step on bare metal is epoxy. It works so well. Then I find that the gloss in the product is PERFECT for viewing imperfections in filler. I have been blocking my work with long boards and discovering the fill charactisits of the product are SO good that I may not need high build.

I have discovered that I may not have a desire for high build and may have eliminated the need for guide coats merely by using SPI epoxy. My bodywork skills have improved. I am really loving the rage Extreme filler I bought and all is going well.

Is there any reason that I cannot use SPI epoxy exclusively through every step on this project? Meaning I have no real intention of using high build as I am not sure I have the need anymore. I have seen this debated and I do not want to start and argument. I just want to make sure that if I choose to go this route I am in the decent company of those who have AND created excellent, lasting results (that is my only goal in the long run, afterall!)

When I get out the long block and work a huge expanse of fresh metal with minimal filler and can CLEARLY see what needs attention. . .I am confident that I will get great results.

Is there ANY reason that this is not sound logic from a paint chemistry stantpoint, a cost stantpoint (not as important) or a procedural (best practices) standpoint?

Advice appreciated as always!
Brent
 
If you don't need a high build primer and are not in a hurry then epoxy all the way is great! The best durability for sure and very stable once full cure is reached.
 
Shine uses this principal and maybe he can shed some light on how long to wait before actually spraying color. The full cure rate on epoxy is like 30 days if I am not mistaken so how much before that time is it safe to spray color with no chance of ill effects?
 
shine would be the one for the best info and experience. i dont use high build, and just use epoxy. i thought on a warm day a couple of coats cures in a day, and it must be top coated wihin a day or two with lots of guys spraying a very reduced epoxy seal coat an hour before base for best base adhesion...
 
i use epoxy only . nothing else. it is just my preferred way of doing it . cure times are not that much different than high build poly or polyester. just my opinion and worth just what you paid for it .
 
There are some situations where I have used epoxy only, and the results are always outstanding. Other times, I have felt that urethane primer is necessary, either due to time constraints, or the vehicle itself is just too wavy or imperfect, much of it that way from the factory.

Either way, the job always starts as epoxy only, and as it progresses we can tell which way to go with it.
 
Ive used epoxy all the way thru before also, but do use 2 different colors of it for block sanding. If you do it by the tech sheets say, you will have best primer base there is. But i will also say these other guys on here are way better than I.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I will still need to consider options. The door skins are likely too wavy to use this protocol. I have never used spray poly but am going to need it on the doors if I ever needed it anywhere. I will share my results. I have no realy problem only using epoxy and every confidence that it would work well. Bottom Line. . .it sure is a great, versatile product.
 
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