Burnt sheet metal, epoxy to paint?

W

Whitesnake

Newbie
So I have a door that was from a truck that had an interior fire. Trust me this would never be my choice for a replacement but such is life. He was “saving money” lol. I explained to him after he’s actually spending more money. But anyway…when I say this is a budget job that’s an understatement. I hate even getting involved in this work but it’s a friend and here I am. The truck itself isn’t worthy of even a burnt door itself so white and shiny is all he’s looking for. The inside of the door is stripped. What is the quickest way to get from epoxy to paint? I have black epoxy, white 2k sealer, and white base. Trying to save time and stick to chemical adhesion if I can. I also have a heat lamp if that helps. What’s your opinions?
 
First thing I would ask is did you media blast it? Really the only way to salvage burnt sheetmetal. Sanding doesn't get the micro pores and you will have adhesion issues if you sand it to remove the rust and burnt crud. Media blast it, then epoxy directly over the freshly blasted surface. Proceed as normal. After 24 hours @ 70 degrees if you don't want to sand you could seal directly over the epoxy and then base following the recommended flash times.
 
I did not blast. I used wire wheels, abrasive wheels, 80 grit, etc. basically anything I could to get into all the areas. I know it should be blasted to be done right. It’s a old plow truck that who knows how long before it will be on the scrap yard. Was trying to not get too carried away. I hate even accepting these jobs if I can’t do it right. I have a hopper style spot blaster somewhere I could use? Thanks.
 
So pretty much a couple coats of unreduced epoxy and 24 hours then I can seal? Can I use my white 2k or do I need to use reduced epoxy? Can I cut the time way down with a heat lamp on the epoxy or no?
 
Whitesnake said:
So pretty much a couple coats of unreduced epoxy and 24 hours then I can seal? Can I use my white 2k or do I need to use reduced epoxy? Can I cut the time way down with a heat lamp on the epoxy or no?
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Yes, if you put two coats unreduced, I would wait 24 hours, then proceed as normal. If you want to speed it up six hours in the sun and it would be ready to topcoat, heat lamp IDK, Perhaps check with Barry on that. Urethane sealer would be fine to apply over the epoxy.
 
Ok that helps. One day isn’t so bad. I can epoxy some other stuff at the same time. Then 2k seal and bc/cc the next day. I’m sure that’s what I’ll do because it’s what I have on hand. But out of curiousity…and I’m sure I might get the stink eye for it…etch primer? Let flash, seal, paint? Actually I think I might even have a quart of Finish 1 etch in the cabinet. Curiosity ya know?
 
We’ll it’s basically a freebie and will probably be in the junkyard in a year or 2. Lip stick on a pig I guess. Wasn’t my call. But that’s why I’m trying to do whatever is best quickly. I know those 2 words dont go together but certain jobs are only worth so much.
 
This is kind of a different scenario for me I do mostly collision work, touch ups, etc. Not so much full on restorations. So and rust work I do is usually just cut out and replaced. I’ve honestly never used ospho. I thought the rust converters and what not were frowned upon? Is there anything like ospho that can be store bought?
 
Whitesnake said:
This is kind of a different scenario for me I do mostly collision work, touch ups, etc. Not so much full on restorations. So and rust work I do is usually just cut out and replaced. I’ve honestly never used ospho. I thought the rust converters and what not were frowned upon? Is there anything like ospho that can be store bought?
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Millstone remover is cheap phosphoric acid as well. Get it at Tractorless Supply.
 
You can get Ospho at most Ace hardware stores. If you media blasted it you wouldn't need Ospho.
There are dozens of threads on it here.
If you are wanting to do it fast forget about epoxy and ospho. If it's going on something that's junk, sand it as best you can quickly and use some self etch primer. Then 2K straight over that and forget about it. That's if you want to do it fast on something that is very low end. You have two options do it fast, or do it right.
 
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This is extremely low end. And he knows that as well. Still not my cup of tea I’d rather do things right but there’s no meat left on the bone for this one. That’s what friends are for right? Lol
 
Nowadays I just refer people with stuff like this to a media blaster. Then when it gets to me, it's fast, easy, and done right.
Someday I would like to set up a blast rig, but depending on how it's done it can be a huge investment.
 
if it were me once it was cleaned, sanded and ready to go and assuming that there wasnt going to be any sanding or bodywork done then i would shoot one coat of white epoxy, wait an hour then shoot it in a white single stage.
 
Just eliminates a step and its usually cheaper. Also a thicker build so it hides slight imperfections better like pits etc. as well as its mire durable for a work truck. if you already have the base then roll with that.
 
Ok that’s what I figured just wanted to make sure. Just one medium unreduced coat and I can shoot it after an hour? I know I’m prob abusing it. I thought about that but wasn’t sure if it would cure enough that fast. I have a lamp if that helps at all.
 
Well here is the thing, yes you can shoot on a single coat of epoxy after 1 hour, however that depends on how you spray it and how evenly. Anywhere that you end up spraying heavy is going to slow the whole process down. One med coat is all you really need for adhesion. Prob not the best for corrosion protection but if you dont care and it sounds like you dont then youll be good. You can also use acid etch. Thats fine in this situation where speed is more important than longevity. I think that is a bit more error proof.
 
Any of the 1k etches worth a darn? I’m out of part b and very low on part a of what I have. Thought I had more. But I see SEM, Upol, transtar, etc offer quarts of 1k.
 
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