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Buffing single stage problem

#1
I am having issue with nason ful thane pw7 color code. I have 4-6 coats on and sanded 1500,2000, and 3000 trizact. start buffing all is ok using perfect it ex rubbing compound about 1000-1200 rpm. Starting to see rings showing up kinda like going through first coat and can see next underneath. anyone know what could be issue. have considered blocking it all down with 800-1000 and clearing with 2 coats of clear.
 

jlcustomz

evil painter
#3
Haven't fooled with much nason ss before, but it kinda sounds like the 4 to 6 coats of your lower cost paint isn't fully cured yet. Maybe not enough flash time between coats for your temperature conditions. Will also likely experience dieback later if this is the case. I've cleared nason ss before. In fact the entire front end in the vehicle in my avatar was done with it years ago. It was the nason clear, not the spi I use now. When buffed to near perfection & cleaned , the cleared & ss only look pretty much the same in black, but the cleared is a little easier to maintain.
 
#4
Yeah I was kinda scared that maybe it had to do with flash time it was cooler when sprayed, since truck is still blown apart I think I will block all panels and shoot 2-3 good coats of clear. I know from past experience spraying nason ful thane it stays very tacky for awhile after spraying. never done this method but heard results are fantastic.
 
#5
that stuff does not buff worth a damn. it is water thin and covers like crap.

Would have to agree with you shine very thin and seems to scratch extremely easy. Done some cars years ago and they turned out descent for drivers. first time I have used it in years though.
 
#6
Nason sucks, like Shine said the crap is thin. If you or anyone wants to do and have a nice job don't use that cheep crap. There is a reason it is cheaper then Centari.
 
#7
it's ok for collision or car lot work. that is what 2nd line systems are for but they dont perform well in custom work. i used omni one time and i could look through the ss color and see the peel in the prior coat. my adventures into the unknow are over with . i dont care if ppg goes to 1k a qrt . my last time is going to cost me a 10k redo .
 
#8
A local guy brings me Ford tractor tin once a year and I use it on that. It saves him money and I just spray 3 coats, 1500 da and rub with 3m stuff. Not show in my book but the tractor people love it.

I let it sit a week or so before I rub it. Maybe the lower layers are still wet???? Did you follow the tech sheet for time between coats? That stuff is 8:1 mix so it mixes like the old enamels and sands/rubs like them also.

I've never had a problem like your talking about. If I did I'd try to get some clear on it, get it rubbed and never use it again. Good for used car lots and tractors, I'd never use it on a nice car.
 
#9
Fulthane is what I'm using on the project I'm on now because Dupont/Axalta doesn't have a formula for my color in any other single stage paint line and I need a SS for a restoration quality job. As stated above the stuff is like spraying colored solvent and takes many many coats to cover and have something you can buff without going thru it. It also gums up your sandpaper when you colorsand it; I'm thinking letting it cure for a number of days (or even longer) before cutting it might solve that problem.

After sanding down to about 2000 grit I've had good luck buffing it with 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound for the initial buff - which is very very aggressive - then I go to Meguire's most aggressive compound - which actually isn't as aggressive as they make it out to be - then I finish with Meguire's speed glaze. The almost flat edges are the hardest to get the sanding scratches out without buffing thru the paint because it doesn't work to buff "off the edge" like you're taught to do: if you that you're basically just polishing the sanding scratches. You also have to play around with the buffing speed for the area you are buffing on and have a lot of patience.