blocking

old sarge

Member
I am going to block 3 coats of UV Mon. prior to flowcoating with 3 more coats.I am going to start with blocking 500 wet and then 600 on a da with an interface pad with an interface pad .Question is how to tell when the wave is gone.? After flow coating the procedure will have to be repeated but I am reluctant to start with anything coarser than 600 on a block then run thru to 3000 on the da. Please tell me how you do it. Also I don't remember reading any thing about changing the mixing ratio or anything specific to flow coating. Thanks
 
If you use a rigid block with 500 any urethane wave will be gone, I would reclear over that-skip the 600 DA work-just give it a good rub down with a grey scotchbrite. Some like to add a little reducer to the clear for the flow coats just to help them get it on thin and flat. The more coats you apply the more chance the wave will come back.
 
Depends what the finish looks like... Runs, dirt, peel, waves-will all determine how aggressive a grit you'll need. I've never done the initial cut with 400 like some do here but I have started with 600,800, and 1000. If you're using soft pads and blocks you'll need an aggressive grit otherwise it will just follow the wave. If you use a hard block you can start with finer grits, I often use home-made plexiglass blocks and sticks with 1000 grit but there's also usually contoured areas where you'll need to use something flexible-I have pieces of rubber in various thicknesses for areas that are curved and compound curves. After the initial cut wash it well and move on to a finer grit, knowing when to stop with each one takes some time to master so if this is your first time around doing it this way final sand a few panels and see how if buffs, if sanded correctly to 3000 it will buff like a dream. If you rushed the sanding there will be scratches there the buffer won't want to cut out. I get my best results with proper sanding and minimal time on the buffer.
 
Sarge, when you shoot that first flow coat it's going to want to run so it's important to have that gun adjusted to lay a thin slick coat, let it tack up really well before the next goes on, coat two will need to go on a little wetter, let coat 2 tack up real good and shoot number three as wet as it needs to be.
 
Skip the DA. Make sure everything is super clean before your flow coat so nothing gets trapped between applications of clear. Like Bob said, you will get lots of unwanted practice at sanding out runs if you aren't really careful with gun setup and technique on your first flow coat.

One more thing that Bob told me a while back that will definitely save you some headaches: Pick a small, easy panel to work with (that can be easily resprayed if need be) and complete your entire sanding and buffing process on it before working on anything else. You don't want to take the whole car through a step and realize that you were making a mistake the whole time.

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Skip the DA. Make sure everything is super clean before your flow coat so nothing gets trapped between applications of clear. Like Bob said, you will get lots of unwanted practice at sanding out runs if you aren't really careful with gun setup and technique on your first flow coat.

One more thing that Bob told me a while back that will definitely save you some headaches: Pick a small, easy panel to work with (that can be easily resprayed if need be) and complete your entire sanding and buffing process on it before working on anything else. You don't want to take the whole car through a step and realize that you were making a mistake the whole time.
 
Thanks Strum. you are very correct Bob and Shine gave some very good advice. This is maybe my 100th overall job . Just goes to show you that you are never to old to learn.
 
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