Bit the bullet on a couple of AFS boards - WOW

Arrowhead

Arrowhead

Oldtimer
After much deliberation, I coughed up the coin and got 27" and 15" AFS sanding boards.

I am blown away at how well they work. It's so much faster and easier to level and get flat panels, esp those w/ crowns. I just tried the 27" out for the first time tonight and I couldn't put it down, I just kept going from panel to panel, pulling the rods out as needed and basically reflattening the whole car.

I'm not selling anything and maybe the pro's have tried and true methods that are better, but I think these boards were a good investment and are going to help improve my productivity and quality.

I thought I was doing someting innovative buy using a long aluminum strip to help level large ares, but it was cumbersome and slow to use. These take it to the next level with all the extra features. Dare I say it, sanding can be fun? Ha Ha

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Those are real nice!!
Just be careful with long boards on curved surfaces,
it's real easy to go the wrong direction and create flat
spots in the curves.
 
hmmm, i got the big set of them and while they do work great i just never found them to be FUN. your more than welcome to stop by the shop anytime and sand to your hearts content. got plenty of stuff you can use your boards on.
 
I've got the big set also. I've had them for over 5 years and they have held up great. I don't use the 36" one though. You'd have to be a gorilla to handle that thing with a sharp piece of 40 grit on it. And the fun wears off pretty quick.
 
I forgot to say they don't work good with 320 or finer paper unless you put a cushion between the sandpaper and the board. Foam like the thickness of douple stick trim tape. I bought my set from the original guy making them and he included some 2" wide foam stick tape and then duct tape over the sticky side so the sandpaper will come off. Otherwise you spend all your time throwing sandpaper away that has random clog spots in an otherwise good piece of paper.
 
The secret to why they work so well is that spring steel base. I wish they offered one in twice the rigidity for the longer boards.
 
Yes, flexible but still has a hard surface. I love the durablock scuff pad 5x3/4 because it gives you the same thing.
 
Bob,
The 36" board is twice as stiff as the others and has an aluminum base instead of the spring steel. You could cut it to any length if you wanted it shorter. At least mine is but I also bought them before all the eastwood and others started selling them so I'm not sure if they are the same.
 
for anyone interested northern tool has the 36" board in their clearance section with $40 off.
 
The 9" one is a favorite for smaller surfaces. Really controllable with one hand. I left it on a tire one time and drove over it and bent the spring steel. I didn't replace it for a year but I sure missed that little block everytime I went to reach for it. I have two of the 15" blocks and use one as is and the other is setup for the 320/400 grit with the foam backing. If I could only have three it would be 9", 15", 27" and you can do almost anything. Well, then the 4" on is handy also so you might as well get the set.
 
AFS blocks have rods in them?...what does that mean? I wouldn't mind buying a longer block, my longest is I think is a 16" or so dura block. I also have a 3m sanding block the yellow plastic ones, the longetst about 17" which is like a hand board file. I would like a longer board for larger quarter panels, etc.. Are the AFS the best? What else is as good or better? they seem kinda pricey...
 
THey have three 1/8" steel rods down the center. You can adjust the stiffness of the board depending if you have 0-1-2-3 rods in place. With them all removed the board flexes like a banana very easilly. But with the spring steel base it's still rigid to block flat including body fillers. It just cuts the surface flat. I have a pile of durablocks also but they pretty such sit in the drawer and rot. As far as I'm concerned if your serious about sanding these the thing to own. My durablocks are just wet sanding blocks now. They work good for that but they aren't any where near as rigid or adaptable as the AFS. I think a 15" afs will out perform a 36" durablock in blocking a hood or quarter panel using good technique. Even though it's shorter it's just that much more rigid.
 
The secret is the thin flexible steel base that will follow the overall contour of the panel, but slice off the localized high spots.
 
Everyone has their own preference, but the longest block I have is a 18" Durablock. It is stiff enough to block a panel as straight as it should be. Since there are really no normal panels on a vehicle that are supposed to be "straight", meaning that they all have some kind of bow or curve to them somewhere, you don't want anything longer that is truely rigid. The longer the board, the harder it is to really control it, because of the localized pressure on the block by your hands.

If you are using one of those monster blocks, make sure that you can visually check the panels before you spray any base. Sealing with the black epoxy and getting as glossy a finish as you can may save a lot of heartache. You will see what you cannot feel.

Aaron
 
I can get a panel dead straight with a 15" block,
I have never seen a need for a block longer than that.
The longer ones can get you in trouble if not used properly.
It's to easy to use uneven pressure or hit a curve the wrong way
and put a flat spot in it.
But to each his own, if it works good for you then use it for sure.:cool:
 
The rods aren't rocket science. Leave em in for a flat panel and pull them out and you can follow the contour of a roofline. I use them all or nothing and they probably use three rods so there is one on each side and one down the middle of the sander for even support. I don't use spray polyesters, I just skim coat the body with filler. These sanders knock the filler flat better than anything I've tried. Probably on blocking primer work a durablock would do the same thing but there is no comparsion on blocking skimmed filler.
 
I've worked on some long straight quarters that just can't be straightened (to perfection) with a 16" block, for this size area you need a longer block. Minor gradual waves won't get cut straight with a 16" block if it just floats in and out of them. Bottom line is you need to determine the quality level you're after and also the length of block that fits the sanding task at hand. When you think that long flat panel is perfect after sanding with a 15" block-apply some guidecoat and go over it with a rigid 32" block and you'll see just how perfect it isn't. To each his own...
 
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