Best welding wire

  • Thread starter Road gear Deere
  • Start date
shine;25598 said:
by using a piece of wire you can cool the weld by sticking the wire in much like tig welding . especially if you have much of a gap.
Good one shine.
 
I have never heard or thought of that but I am going to try it out tomorrow on some scrap. Thanks for the explanation I get it now.
 
chevman;25561 said:
Bob, I never heard of easy grind before you mentioned it, but it sounds interesting and is now available.

https://weldingsupply.securesites.net/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:OR:130TF43


http://www.scottgrossstore.com/servlet/the-15476/ESAB-All-dsh-State-EASY-GRIND/Detail


They recommend using 75/25 gas with easy grind, which most guys use anyway.

I've used a few small rolls of EZ-grind wire and liked it but it's pricey or maybe I'm just cheap-LOL. There is basic low strength mild steel mig wire available that's used regularly in manufacturing but I haven't found a supplier that offers it in spools sized for regular welders. If you find any let me know. I also had a Marquette welder years ago that came with some cheap no-name wire-the welder was built in Italy. That cheap no-name wire welded excellent +flow, easy to grind, and hammered nice-as good or better than the $60+/roll EZ-grind wire and I sure wish I could find a supplier for the same. When you're butt welding soft mild steel it really doesn't necessitate the use of higher strength and harder ER70S-6 IMO.
 
Road gear Deere;25603 said:
I have never heard or thought of that but I am going to try it out tomorrow on some scrap. Thanks for the explanation I get it now.
I would wait for some clarification on this. I just don't see the benefit or need. If you are burning a lot of holes then something is wrong.
 
In my shop we do a lot of late model repairable cars, I buy clips what other salvage yards cut off . To take apart the spot welds you use a drill. Sometimes the hole used to take apart welds gets big. Today's cars are very LIGHT as I said in the very beginning and can be a MF to get plug welded with out hole wanting to get bigger. Most time the hole in the used part partially lines up with what you are working on making it thiner spot yet ,and wanting to burn through easier. Not a problem on older stuff 16-18 gauge.This new stuff once and a while can be 22-24 and is a joke. That is the benefit. I hope that clarifies what I was curious for opinions on. I can weld and get it done I just want faster and better nothing wrong. Thanks
 
Road gear Deere;25603 said:
I have never heard or thought of that but I am going to try it out tomorrow on some scrap. Thanks for the explanation I get it now.
I'm not sure if 16 ga was ever used on outer body panels and 18 ga hasn't been used since probably the 1930s, but yes the newer stuff is thin, so all the more reason to use both hands to make sure the torch stays pointed where you want it when you pull on the trigger. There are a lot of welders out there doing the same thing as you and having problems with it also, and this is a simple concept, but neither of us has ever heard or thought of it before and I'm having trouble visualizing it.Trying on some scrap would be good, please let us know how it goes.
 
shine;25598 said:
by using a piece of wire you can cool the weld by sticking the wire in much like tig welding . especially if you have much of a gap.

Shine,
Do you mean use a piece of welding wire off the spool?
 
yes. i keep some handy. it's much easier to use than trying to adjust all the time. i learned to weld with gas . dont really like the mig welder in the first place . i prefer the tig or gas. and you can not weld metal without shrinking it .
 
There will certainly be shrinkage when welding, no doubt about it. And I also prefer the tig or gas over mig for thin sheet metal, but most of the guys on here use mig, and your process might help them out if you explain a little more. Is your style one of connecting the dots, or do you weld up an inch or so when using the mig?
Also, what is meant by "easier to use than trying to adjust all the time"
 
I don't weld up an in or so, as that will cause warping on most metals I generally weld. I weld maybe quarter inch, then I move to different area. I then weld in between my previous welds, and so forth. I guess you could say I am connecting the dots. I will also not get in a hurry because I don't want to created any more warpage for myself. I take my time, and I don't get in a hurry. I will stop at times and let everything cool. I also at times use a blow gun and blow cold air on the area to keep it cool. I normally don't have too many issues with warpage. In regards to blowing holes in the metal, at times things get thin. If your mig is set right, you should be able to plug weld or stitch what you have to. Some of this stuff takes a lot of practice to do a nice job with. Maybe you need to practice on some old scrap metal if you are having a lot of problems. As Shine mentioned, I use something similar to the welding wire, but it is the welding studs for the stud puller gun I usually use. I have used welding wire too, but I found on certain area's for me, the welding pins work good and I simply grind off my weld afterwards. Also, I check my welds really well before moving on with any fillers.
 
Road gear Deere;25609 said:
In my shop we do a lot of late model repairable cars, I buy clips what other salvage yards cut off . To take apart the spot welds you use a drill. Sometimes the hole used to take apart welds gets big. Today's cars are very LIGHT as I said in the very beginning and can be a MF to get plug welded with out hole wanting to get bigger. Most time the hole in the used part partially lines up with what you are working on making it thiner spot yet ,and wanting to burn through easier. Not a problem on older stuff 16-18 gauge.This new stuff once and a while can be 22-24 and is a joke. That is the benefit. I hope that clarifies what I was curious for opinions on. I can weld and get it done I just want faster and better nothing wrong. Thanks

Use a piece of copper on the backside of the hole.
 
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