Best method to strip paint

cllong1

Active Member
Oldtimer, ma that stuff you got is laid on heavy at least you know how to fix it properly.I may try it but I think Im going to try to find a variable speed buffer sander and go that route. I may try the heat gun in tight area that sander wont reach, thanks for sharing thoughts and pics
 

cllong1

Active Member
Just wanted to give you guys an update, for starters went to harbor freight and got a variable speed polisher/sander 7 inch with 80 grit discs. Started yesterday peeling off the top, I guess that 55 year old original paint is a little stubborn but the 80 grit is cutting it just going through all those cheap discs from harbor freight. I wanted to follow the instructions you all gave at least dont see any bad sand scratches. I'm about halfway through with the top, I work a full time job plus this mississippi heat.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Just wanted to give you guys an update, for starters went to harbor freight and got a variable speed polisher/sander 7 inch with 80 grit discs. Started yesterday peeling off the top, I guess that 55 year old original paint is a little stubborn but the 80 grit is cutting it just going through all those cheap discs from harbor freight. I wanted to follow the instructions you all gave at least dont see any bad sand scratches. I'm about halfway through with the top, I work a full time job plus this mississippi heat.
Do yourself a favor and get some decent paper. Any Paint and Body Supply (jobber) will have paper that is light years better than that HF junk. Plus it will be cheaper. You aren't saving any money with HF paper.
 
Do yourself a favor and get some decent paper. Any Paint and Body Supply (jobber) will have paper that is light years better than that HF junk. Plus it will be cheaper. You aren't saving any money with HF paper.
This is very true. I tried the cheap sandpaper route and you end up working much harder and using a lot more paper that way. Plus the quality control of the grit size isn't as good. You may be getting deeper scratches that what you should with the cheaper paper. HF sell junk in my experience and opinion so don't expect any of it to work as good or as long!
 

cllong1

Active Member
That is so true, I will head back to local body shop today to get sanding paper. But once I got started sanding and started seeing metal I started getting very happy about my project. It took me 3 days to sand the top and sail panel with HF paper.
 
That is so true, I will head back to local body shop today to get sanding paper. But once I got started sanding and started seeing metal I started getting very happy about my project. It took me 3 days to sand the top and sail panel with HF paper.
Heat gun and razor blade could change your life. ;)
 

cllong1

Active Member
Coronet, I’m in to deep now went to local body shop and 50 pack 80 grit and a 6 inch pad. May try it one day
 

jcmeyer5

Member
Honestly, we are using Harbor Freight electric 6" sanders for most of our stripping with sanding discs from Amazon. They are cheap enough that I dont mind changing them a lot. For the tighter spaces, a 2" sandings disks on a angled die grinder and a Dremel tool with small sanding cylindersfor the little stuff. If it gets to the point where the die grinder or dremel doesnt fit, I hit it with crushed glass form a Speed Blaster.

I did try chemical stripper. It just inst the same since they took the cancer gel off the market. I did the deck lid that way, but stopped after that since it took 2 days. The sanding was faster.

I did use heat on the front fender to take out massive amounts of body filler. Didnt end up using that fender. I have 1 door left to strip, and I will definitely try the heat gun/ razor trick.
 

MP&C

Member
Honestly, we are using Harbor Freight electric 6" sanders for most of our stripping with sanding discs from Amazon. They are cheap enough that I dont mind changing them a lot.
JC, just for shits, next time you need paper buy some good quality stuff that has high ratings for not loading up. Then compare how much you go through vs. all the changing you're doing now so you can compare actual cost and not just price tag cost. In my experience I spend less and waste less time using the quality abrasives.
 

cllong1

Active Member
,
JC, just for shits, next time you need paper buy some good quality stuff that has high ratings for not loading up. Then compare how much you go through vs. all the changing you're doing now so you can compare actual cost and not just price tag cost. In my experience I spend less and waste less time using the quality abrasives.
They guys on here put me on to some good paper I got Some boxes of Sunmight 80 grit but went to local body shop after I bought harbor freight. I’m moving a whole lot faster now. I can actually see progress but harbor freight is what is.
 

cllong1

Active Member
Ask these guys on here about it, this will be my first time using this brand ordered online, I bought a couple of HI-Teck 80 grit from local body supply that was better than Harbor Freight. Anything that makes the job go a whole easier and faster Im down with it.
 

cllong1

Active Member
Sunmight huh? I’ll check into it. Gonna do a Mustang for my son after the Dart
Congrats on the Mustang I have always been a chevy guy until I ran across a lady at work that wanted to sell her 65, the body was in pretty good shape needs a little love. What year is your son mustang
 
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